The Devil in Do’s Details
Review of Peter Do Spring 2024 Fashion Show
By Angela Baidoo
THE COLLECTION
THE VIBE
THE THEME
Proving that simplicity says it best, Peter Do’s first show on the Parisian circuit came with the caveat in his show notes that “this season, we want our work to speak for itself”, and that it did, as with this young designer, the devil was all in his details.
There has been much discourse this season around major design houses presenting collections that are too simplistic, but what emerging designers have on their side is the grace to present this narrative as their brand DNA, and as long as they have something new to say on the subject of minimalism, they will often be embraced. And that is where Do has found his sweet spot. When you buy into the brands tailored foundations, you can expect, not Savile Row, but more Satorial Covention-breaking.
Its a fact that Do does his best work when playing with mixed materials. Pairing heavy rib with lightweight chiffon immediately knocks the seriousness out of the fabrics occasionwear connotations, while his signature two-tone trousers – this time in a leather and satin on a male model – still remains one of his more desirable creations. But it was his leather and suede spliced shirt (again worn on a male model but fit for all genders and the non-binary) which felt DIY, rebellious, and refined all at once. Blending together these two luxury materials to great effect, its sure to become a casual staple among the uptown set. While a jacquard lining with the designers name on was a nuanced take on logomania.
The fluidity of his pieces also makes them inherently interchangeable, without a trace of pandering to the ‘trend’ for all things gender-fluid. By the nature of his designs there is a pragmatism to his approach that leans towards an understanding of the way things are headed.
THE BUZZWORDS
Detail-orientated. Fashioned fluidity. More than minimalism
THE SHOWSTOPPER
Look #21
Forget corporate cliches, the business unform is under deconstruction as Do makes the internal workings of classic tailoring the talking point, with cream lining patchworked into a tailored overcoat, and peeking out from under a pair of Bermuda shorts. It adds just enough edge for the next generation of Wall Street types not to fall foul of strict company dress codes.
THE DIRECTION
THE QUOTE
This season, we want our work to speak for itself
Peter Do
THE WRAP UP
The grasp which Peter Do already has on his customer, as well as what he is bringing to the market, shouldn’t be underestimated. As the designer, along with a small cohort of his contemporaries, has realised the importance of a well curated edit that will transition from day to night. A clever twist on the back-to-front dress (a draped white shift with an asymmetric tie detail and red chiffon panel) shows us how it should be done for the ‘Now’. The designer also skilfully weaved in a number of looks from his upcoming Banana Republic collaboration, to let his fans know that they will be getting a pure version of the Peter Do brand as opposed to a watered-down version, as can sometimes be the case when it comes to these partnerships. From skewed henley tanks to a detachable turtleneck sweater with cut-out sleeves, and a pleated trenchcoat, Do’s timely collaboration is luxury without the premium price-point for those who are at the start of their careers and may have felt excluded from the trend for all things ‘Quiet Luxury’. Here’s to Do winning a whole new fanbase.
