Seasoned Italian Designer Takes Helm at Balenciaga
Pierpaolo Piccioli has been tapped as the new creative director of Balenciaga, effective July 10. His inaugural collection is scheduled for unveiling in October during Paris Fashion Week.
Piccioli succeeds Demna, the Georgian designer known for his avant-garde approach, who led Balenciaga for a decade. Demna’s tenure was marked by the introduction of chunky sneakers, oversized hoodies, and a redefinition of luxury fashion. In March, Kering, Balenciaga’s parent company, appointed Demna as the new artistic director of Gucci, tasking him with revitalizing the Italian fashion house.
Piccioli’s career spans 25 years at Valentino, where he emphasized romance, glamour, and couture grandeur. He now joins Balenciaga, a brand known for its minimalist stores and a balanced focus on both women’s and men’s fashion.
Under Demna’s direction, Balenciaga gained prominence in streetwear circles, celebrated for its oversized tailoring, bulky footwear, slogan knits, and distressed jeans. The brand also reintroduced haute couture and collaborated with A-list actresses like Nicole Kidman, Michelle Yeoh, and Isabelle Huppert.
Balenciaga has explored various fashion directions under previous creative directors, including Josephus Thimister, Alexander Wang, and Nicolas Ghesquière, who brought experimental and futuristic elements to the brand.
At 57, Piccioli has been on a professional hiatus since leaving Valentino in March 2024. He began his fashion career with a decade at Fendi, working alongside Maria Grazia Chiuri. Reports from March 2024 suggested Piccioli was a potential candidate for Balenciaga’s creative director role. He also engaged in discussions with Fendi and maintained close ties with Valentino’s owner, Mayhoola.
Piccioli is renowned for his daring volumes and colors, particularly in haute couture, and for broadening Valentino’s aesthetic to appeal to younger and more diverse audiences.
On Monday, Piccioli reflected on Cristóbal Balenciaga’s influence, noting that the first image he posted on Instagram in 2018 was a 1967 wedding ensemble by the Spanish master. He captioned it, “Simplicity is a solved complexity.”
“Cristóbal Balenciaga’s legacy and archive is probably one of the most influential fashion statements of all time,” Piccioli wrote. “He has done everything before everyone; he has literally invented the culture of creativity; he has infused the idea of couture in every aspect of his career, and he has shown, through his creations, the power of evolution and innovation.”
Piccioli emphasized his intention to build upon the foundations laid by previous creative leaders. “Balenciaga is what it is today thanks to all the people who have paved the way. Cristóbal, Nicolas, Alex, Demna,” he wrote. “In all its phases, while constantly evolving and changing, it has never lost track of the house’s aesthetic values.”
Piccioli’s appointment adds to the list of anticipated debuts this fashion season, with Gucci, Chanel, Bottega Veneta, Loewe, Versace, Jil Sander, and Jean Paul Gaultier also introducing collections by new creative directors.
In a statement issued Monday evening in Paris, Kering announced that Piccioli would “bring his unique creative vision and extensive experience to Balenciaga, building on the strengths and success achieved by the brand over the past decade under Demna’s creative direction, and in continuity with the legacy of Cristóbal Balenciaga and of the historic Parisian house.”
Francesca Bellettini, Kering’s deputy CEO in charge of brand development, described Piccioli as “one of the most talented and celebrated designers of today.” She added, “His mastery of haute couture, his creative voice, and his passion for savoir-faire made him the ideal choice for the house.” Bellettini also expressed gratitude to Demna for “the bold, distinctive vision he brought to Balenciaga over the past 10 years, shaping the house’s identity in the contemporary era.”
Gianfranco Gianangeli, who became CEO of Balenciaga in November 2024, stated, “I am excited to begin this new era at Balenciaga with Pierpaolo. His creative vision will thrive, and he will perfectly interpret the legacy of Cristóbal Balenciaga, building on the house’s bold creativity, rich heritage, and strong culture. With the expertise of our teams and the dynamic creative energy that has historically driven Balenciaga, I look forward to what we will build together.”
Bellettini added, “I am convinced that Pierpaolo and Gianfranco will lead Balenciaga perfectly through this important new chapter of its remarkable history.”
Cristóbal Balenciaga founded his fashion business in San Sebastián, Spain, in 1919, later opening his couture house in Paris in 1937. His atelier was known for its uncompromising standards and architectural approach to design, producing iconic creations like the cocoon coat, balloon skirt, and sack dress. Balenciaga closed his house in 1968 and passed away in 1972.
In 2018, Piccioli paid homage to Balenciaga’s sculptural designs by creating a collection of down creations for Moncler.
Balenciaga remained dormant until 1986, when Jacques Bogart SA acquired the intellectual property and resumed operations. The brand has since been led by designers including Michel Goma, Thimister, and Ghesquière.
Kering does not disclose specific revenues for Balenciaga, grouping it with other houses like McQueen, Pomellato, and Brioni. In the first quarter of 2025, revenues for these “other houses” declined by 11%, though Kering highlighted a “very solid” performance in Balenciaga’s leather goods. The brand has been expanding its retail network, ending 2024 with 271 stores. Market sources estimate Balenciaga’s revenues exceed 2 billion euros.
Balenciaga is reportedly preparing to introduce fragrances in 2025 under Kering Beauté.
In his letter, Piccioli expressed his enthusiasm for the brand’s potential. “I must first and foremost thank Demna; I’ve always admired his talent and vision,” he wrote. “I couldn’t ask for a better passing of the torch. He paid homage to Cristóbal in his own way, sharing his point of view while maintaining the house’s core identity alive. This gives me the chance to shape a new version of the maison, adding another chapter with a new story.”
He also thanked Kering’s leadership, stating, “I must thank François-Henri Pinault, Francesca, and Gianfranco for the trust they are giving me. We were effortlessly on the same page from the start, and that is the best way to start something new.”
It is understood that Piccioli will relocate to Paris.