Past and Present: Cavalli’s Archival Odyssey
Review of Roberto Cavali Spring 2025 Fashion Show
By Mark Wittmer
THE COLLECTION
THE VIBE
Marine glamor. Archival impact. Adventurous evolution.
For Spring 2025, creative director Fausto Puglisi rethinks the Roberto Cavalli archive while celebrating journeys both literal and figurative.
Titled “Views from Zancle” in reference to the original Ancient Greek name for Messina on the northeast coast of Sicily, the collection largely dropped the animal prints that have defined so much of the brand’s output in favor of prints and textures that channel the shifting history and power of the Mediterranean. Crashing waves lit by sunsets cascade across flowing dresses; the craft of making fishing nets is recontextualized. Intricate crystalline embellishments echo sunlight on sea.
No doubt the most powerful moment of the collection was its spectacular surprise finale, which featured a squad of top models who have previously graced Cavalli runways – including Alek Wek, Mariacarla Boscono, and Karen Elson – wearing iconic archival looks, some of them the very same they themselves debuted on the runway. In addition to being a fitting tribute and a highly Instagrammable moment, the reveal was also a confirmation of how consistent Puglisi’s guidance of the house is with its founder’s vision – even as he continues to sail forward.
THE DIRECTION
THE WRAP UP
It’s exciting to see Puglisi draw on Cavalli’s signature use of bold print while thinking beyond the animal prints through which the designer made his name, channeling a similar spirit while guiding it forward through creative new directions. Coupled with a surprise, superstar archival finale, the show was a solid exhibition of where the brand has been and where it’s going.
Reviewer: Provide 2-3 image #’s (Art team to delete this copy) 3, 20, 49
