Review of Rodarte

Spring 2022 Fashion Show

Review of Rodarte Spring 2022 Fashion Show

Spellbinding Beauty

By Erin Hazelton

Sitting outside in the courtyard of Richard Meier’s Westbeth Artists Community on a warm September day, ethereal music wafting in the air, watching Kate and Laura Mulleavy’s Spring 2022 Rodarte collection flutter by, was a good reminder of what a fashion show should feel like. 

Fashion, like art, is about self-expression. And this show, and the looks presented, felt like art.

While the latest Rodarte collection started out in graphic black and white, there was a softness to this edge: silk paired with lace, capes that cocooned. There was also plenty of sex appeal – a black criss-cross-topped bodysuit with one long leg and one super short, plenty of sheer lace paired with high-heeled boots, silk dresses slipped over the body – these pieces were more louche than mainstream provocative.

Unlined and unabashed, these dresses might be worn by an artist or actress who enjoys making a statement… and doesn’t give a —- what anyone thinks about that statement.  

The less overtly come-hither looks – a layered suit, a sequin-beaded alien mural embroidered on an armless cape-dress, a molten pink sequin dress, three beaded fringe dresses (though these were rather toothsome), and two cape-ed mushroom-print dresses that billowed like small parachutes as the wind blew – were prime examples of why women are happy to drop a heavy dime for a Rodarte piece: the complex details.

These are not machine-made clothes; you can always see the human touch… the blood, sweat and, most likely, tears.

After the main collection was shown, an army of barefoot models in the exact same side-slit uniform marched into the concrete courtyard and took their perfectly-spaced places. While the dresses they wore were the same, the colors varied from white, to a full range of nude, to pastels. As the models posed, the scene reminded me of a Vanessa Beecroft presentation, ending with a lavender… bride?