Sacai

Sacai’s Rebel With a Cause

Review of Sacai Spring 2025 Men’s Fashion Show

By Angela Baidoo

THE COLLECTION

THE VIBE

THE THEME

It’s hard to imagine a minimalist version of Sacai, but as everyone has caught the knuckle-down on your basics bug, Chitose Abe also chose to keep things much simpler this season too. 

A melancholy print on the front of classic white T-shirts was teased via the brands social channels and featured the quote “I think the prime reason for existence, for living in this world, is discovery”. And if anyone has yet to discover Abe’s passion project, which takes a Japanese sensibility to design and construction, that has led to her being renowned for precision patchworking, then her spring 2025 collection is an easy in, as more (commercial) pieces than we usually see from the branwere included. For reference there was a definite 1950s Rockabilly note to each look as James Dean was used across T-shirts paired with slouchy trousers which had sculptural Pockets which curved seductively away from the body. 

In mining this theme for her collection Abe is tapping into Japanese Americana – a style whose seeds were sown post-World War II when American soldiers were frequent visitors to the country, through to the 1960s when they brought with them references to home and the Ivy styling of college campuses. But rather than focus on cable knits (fair isles with ribs normally placed at the hem re-fashioned across the body) chinos – two categories the brand is known for remixing – there were leather jackets channeling the original rebel without a cause, quaffed hair, and the retro styling of a crisp shirt left open to reveal a T-shirt underneath.

The designers usual splicing which normally draws the most attention for its thoughtful combination of tailoring and knitwear, utility and feminine sheers saw the addition of heavy knit cardigans and contrast collar jackets in satin with vintage conversational prints depicting hot rod races and Hawaiian florals. Hawaii’s Raceway Park was actually at the centre of Hawaiian racing culture (a film tracing the history of hot rodding – or Hao Wela – communities on the island, was also produced in 2017) from the 1960s until it closed in 2006.

A number of collaborators were unveiled in todays show, including reimagined versions of Levi’s Type I, II, and III jacket recognisable by their pin tucked front, were in some looks bonded to denim pants, J.W. Weston penny loafers, Japan’s WTAP, and the brands ongoing partnership with Nike produced the ‘Zegamadome’ sneaker that combined a Nike Zoom and Vibram sole for outdoor activities.

The quote on discovery was also communicated literally through the styling of models in dark-rimmed glasses and book bags as props “ suggesting the ephemera of academia and youth, discovery in motion” as outlined in the show notes. The set piece which was the wooden framework of a house from which the models emerged was also a metaphor for the first place in which we experience growth and self-discovery, in this Chitose Abe’s own ‘coming-of-age’ collection for spring 2025.

THE BUZZWORDS
Japanese Americana, hot-rodding, cultivating collaboration

THE SHOWSTOPPER

THE DIRECTION

THE WRAP UP

Chitose Abe’s Spring 2025 collection for Sacai followed in the footsteps of her fellow designers this season and embraced a simplified aesthetic, featuring vintage prints and a quote which highlighted the essence of discovery. Drawing inspiration from James Dean’s signature style and Japanese Americana, the collection showcased James Dean-themed T-shirts, slouchy trousers with sculptural pockets, with leather jackets. Abe’s signature splicing technique was pared back for the menswear on show, and introduced a new cleaner narrative for the designer. Collaborations with Levi’s, J.W. Weston, WTAP, and Nike introduced unique pieces, while the show’s set design, a wooden house framework, symbolized the theme of growth and self-discovery.

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