Review of Sia Arnika Spring 2024 Fashion Show
Berlin is different
By Dao Tran
Berlin ist anders. As one says in German, “Berlin is different.” In April 2019, after an identity crisis and a soul searching look at what makes Berlin Berlin, the Senate came up with a new slogan (or doubled down on an old one): Berlin bleibt anders, or “Berlin remains different.” As someone who lived in New York in the 90s,
Berlin is like New York before September 11 – a creative magnet for people with a vision or ambition or – better yet: both. Berlin is the New York of Europe, where people go who have outgrown their homes, where people go to find their tribe, find their voice, and live out their dreams.”
Sia Arnika came from a small island in Denmark to Berlin. She has been steadily growing her brand born during Covid, culminating in the strongest collection to date. You can see the time with Ottolinger and this nets in the sea background. But, there is good tailoring and new silhouettes and sculptural volumes which offer an interesting proposition, such as this blazer and vest or upside down button down.
The minimalistic construction of this red top was reminiscent of Yohji Yamamoto with its precise seam and deliberate flap. (Which is the greatest compliment, if that wasn’t obvious.) And the construction of this mustard and grey office ensemble makes it a total design piece and fashion.
There are covetable items like the leather bralettes, wearable items like the knee-length shorts, and Instagrammable ones like the bandage dress , not to mention a statement bag with the floor length fringe. Plus, these granny panties are kind of hot, now that bloomers have become acceptable bottoms – not sure whether we have Zoom or Miu Miu to thank for that, but you’re welcome.
But it’s time to expand beyond all different iterations of the laser cut. Don’t get me wrong, it should absolutely be included in special pieces like this white dress, it’s smart as a trompe l’oeil print on this long skirt, and makes for good layering in this vest. So it may come up as a red thread throughout the collection, but let it not be the main thing defining the brand.
And it’s time to make sure the zippers and closures are completed, that the seams sit right, and the one dress that simply didn’t work be thrown out. Because in the rest of the world, when you “get a look,” it’s not enough to just be cute. Berlin also needs to grow up a little.