Sculpting the Abstract into Fashion
Get an exclusive look at Stéphane Rolland‘s Spring 2025 couture fashion show from the runways of Paris Couture Fashion Week, held in January 2025.
By Mackenzie Richard
THE COLLECTION
THE VIBE
Abstract Movement & Contrasting Forces
Stéphane Rolland’s Spring 2025 collection opened with a poignant note—an acknowledgment of privilege and a call to reflection. Before the first look even hit the runway, a video highlighted Rolland’s initiative supporting a group of teenage girls, an unexpected but thought-provoking moment that reframed the space in which haute couture exists. It asked the audience—comprised of the industry’s most privileged—to look beyond fashion’s opulence and consider the power of couture as a force for greater change.
From there, the collection unfolded as an exploration of sculptural form, geometric precision, and a muted, monochromatic palette punctuated by shades of mink, grey, and brown. Inspired by the abstract purity of Constantin Brancusi’s sculptures and the fluid expressiveness of Joséphine Baker, the collection sought to distill movement and structure into wearable art.
The first ten looks, though refined in their restraint, struggled to ignite much reaction from the audience. It wasn’t until Look 11—a white wool gazar tunic embroidered with Brancusi-inspired white porcelain, paired with a nude stretch tulle skirt embroidered with crystal—that the energy shifted. The contrast between the crisp architectural top and the sheer, embellished fluidity of the skirt created a striking visual tension, awakening the room to the collection’s more emotive possibilities.
From there, the collection gained momentum. While some minimalist looks felt underdeveloped, those that fully embraced structure and volume revealed an artisanal refinement that spoke to Rolland’s couture expertise. Looks 18, 19, and 22 exemplified this—strong, sculpted silhouettes that felt intentional rather than merely geometric. At its best, the collection showcased a mastery of balance: weight and airiness, form and fluidity, structure and softness.
The closing look, “The Bride” (Look 32), provided a poetic counterpoint to the show’s opening look. A strapless white crepe gown embroidered with ivory feathers, it embodied a delicate, weightless beauty that stood in stark contrast to the first look’s black velvet suit with a wide feathered collar. The two together suggested a thematic dialogue—perhaps a play on light and dark, movement and stillness, or even a symbolic nod to Brancusi’s dual explorations of abstraction and materiality.
THE DIRECTION
THE WRAP UP
True to last season, Rolland’s style remains confident, yet the collection felt split between two sensibilities: one deeply sophisticated and timeless, the other leaning into stark geometry that sometimes lacked cohesion. The more minimal pieces needed a stronger conceptual foundation to justify their simplicity. Meanwhile, the best moments—the voluminous, sculptural looks that embraced couture craftsmanship—proved Rolland’s ability to translate artistic influence into wearable form.
Ultimately, Origins was a collection of contrasts, both intentional and unintentional. At its highest points, it sculpted abstraction into fashion. At its weaker moments, it left the viewer searching for a clearer sense of cohesion. But when Rolland leaned fully into the artistry of form, the results were truly mesmerizing.
