Chloé’s Trailblazing Founder Gaby Aghion Honored in her First-Ever Jewish Museum Exhibition
From October 13, 2023, to February 18, 2024, the Jewish Museum will unveil its latest fashion-focused exhibition, Mood of the moment: Gaby Aghion and the house of Chloé. This is the first-ever museum tribute to Gaby Aghion, the Jewish visionary and founder of the iconic French fashion house, Chloé.
Unfolding Chloé’s seven-decade story, the exhibition boasts around 150 distinctive garments, together with rare sketches and archival documents from the brand’s repository. Visitors will journey through Aghion’s revolutionary perspective on fashion – one that melded luxury with ease, eschewing the era’s restrictive norms. The exhibit also shines a spotlight on the notable designers who began their illustrious careers under the Chloé label, such as Karl Lagerfeld, Stella McCartney, and Phoebe Philo.
Born Gabriella Hanoka in 1921 in Alexandria, Egypt, Aghion grew up in a French-speaking Jewish family. Her early fascinations with French fashion cultivated an appreciation for Parisian elegance, with Aghion recreating designs from French magazines with local seamstresses. In 1945, she made Paris her home and soon embedded herself in the Left Bank’s bohemian circles.
In 1952, Aghion inaugurated Chloé, aiming to liberate women from the era’s stiff haute couture. She introduced the idea of luxury ready-to-wear, and in doing so, founded an empire characterized by easy elegance. Chloé quickly became synonymous with modernity, capturing the essence of Parisian bohemian sophistication.
This expansive exhibition further delves into the unique interpretations of subsequent creative directors, mapping Chloé’s evolution from its inception to its commitment to sustainability. Some of the industry’s stalwarts, such as Martine Sitbon, Hannah MacGibbon, Clare Waight Keller, Natacha Ramsay-Levi, and Gabriela Hearst, have their works showcased, echoing Aghion’s original ethos.
Remarkably, while Aghion revolutionized women’s fashion, she herself remained loyal to a personal style – a black skirt paired with a soft-colored silk blouse, reminiscent of the Egyptian sands. As an homage to her, the exhibition culminates with a display of 50 iconic Chloé blouses, underlining Aghion’s vision of beauty in daily wear.
The exhibit has been meticulously curated by Claudia Gould, Choghakate Kazarian, and Kristina Parsons, with its design entrusted to Elliott Barnes. A comprehensive catalogue co-published by the Jewish Museum and Yale University Press accompanies the exhibition. This publication, designed by Joseph Logan, offers a deeper insight into Aghion’s life and the lineage of Chloé.
In addition, the museum has planned a series of related programs. Highlights include panel discussions, virtual talks, concerts, and workshops, offering a multi-faceted perspective on Aghion’s legacy and the indelible mark Chloé has made on the fashion landscape.
Whether you’re a fashion enthusiast or a historian, Mood of the moment: Gaby Aghion and the house of Chloé promises a captivating journey through the annals of a brand that reshaped the very ethos of women’s fashion.
