With partial Covid restrictions, an exciting return to physical shows, and many international editors still not able to make it, the simultaneous buzz and uncertainty of this year’s fashion weeks so far – Milan Men’s, Paris Men’s, and now Paris Couture draws to a close – have made their atmosphere an unprecedented affair. But at the couture shows themselves, you might not have been able to guess it: these collections were as quietly alive with the timeless richness of pure design and craftsmanship as ever.
With his one-off collection as guest designer for John Paul Gaultier, Glenn Martens got to put his mark on couture for the first time, bringing his signature penchant for deconstruction and reconfiguration to the house’s iconic 80’s codes.
Stephan Rolland surprised us with an excellent collection that, while subtly drawing on his history in costume design, felt like a pure expression of the art of couture.
Maria Grazia Chiuri’s embroidery-focused collection for Christian Dior takes home our top spot with its purity of vision, thoughtful applications of timeless craft that synthesize categories of ornamentation and structure, and consideration for physical presence.
Here are The Impression’s Top 10 Couture shows of the Spring 2022 season as selected by our Chief Impressionist, Kenneth Richard.
