Seeing Things in Black and White
Review of Toteme Spring 2025 Fashion Show
By Mark Wittmer
THE COLLECTION
THE VIBE
Purity. Monochrome. Minimalism. Sophistication.
Though it was their first show in New York and only their second runway show ever, Toteme founders and creative directors Elin Kling and Karl Lindman saw their Spring 2025 show as a homecoming of sorts: the couple met here in the early 2010s when she was a fashion blogger and he the design director of Interview magazine. While they returned to their home of Sweden to start their brand, this formidable couple still cites the minimalist New York woman as their main source of inspiration.
Backdropped by a sweeping view of Manhattan from the 48th floor of a midtown skyscraper, the collection evoked the ephemeral elegance of a powerful woman of taste who might sweep by us on the street, leaving only an unmistakable impression of polish and poise. A restrained color palette of black, white, and off-white put the focus on the layered interplay of tailoring purity and super lightweight knits. Despite the rigid and sculptural emotive quality of these looks, comfort is also given foremost consideration, with the same sense of space and ease being applied to an elegantly oversized T-shirt or a fluid silk dress, with both ends of this spectrum further elevated through the thoughtful styling, particularly the jewelry. One moment of monochrome soft citrine rolls through about halfway into the collection, reframing the power of color – and its absence.
THE DIRECTION
THE WRAP UP
With just two runway shows under their belt, Toteme already has a strong vision of how a cohesive collection can move through a space as one. In a sense, however, this collection is more defined by what’s missing than what is actually present. Moving forward, it will be interesting to see how the brand balances this rigorous commitment to minimalism with working to find a positive expression of their own. Nonetheless, Toteme is well on its way.
