Willy Chavarría’s Message of Powerful Resistance Hits the Paris Runways
Review of Willy Chavarria Fall 2025 Men’s Fashion Show
By Angela Baidoo
THE COLLECTION
THE VIBE
Persistent Resistance, Global Outlook, A Brand for All
Willy Chavarría’s debut at Paris fashion week is undoubtedly a cause for celebration. As his first show on the calendar coincides with the year his brand celebrates its 10-year anniversary, one can but wonder if the move was also motivated by the incoming 45th President of the United States. Not that ChavarrÍa could be blamed, seeing as the values which he upholds, and the often marginalised groups that feel seen by his representation of them (most notably on the runway) are those very same groups that are under attack, as laws originally put into place to protect them are being rolled back, seemingly every hour. But in choosing to show in Paris the designer was not abandoning his home country, instead he was using it as an opportunity to spread his brand message on a global stage, because say what you will for any budding brand Paris is still the epicentre which can draw fashions tastemakers and deal breakers into their vortex six times a year (including couture). Speaking to The Impression backstage Chavarría explained the significance of the moment “It feels very powerful [to show in Paris] this is my 10-year anniversary for my brand and showing in Paris is the pinnacle of the fashion stages, showing alongside some of the greatest designers in the world that I love and I feel ready for that, I feel like it’s time and I feel like the message of human dignity and equality and the importance of us coming together to preserve our rights as citizens, as immigrants, as LGBTQ people, as women, and for all of us who are very much under attack right now I am very happy to share this message of unity, of love on a fashion stage in a fashion church”. The show itself was held at the American Cathedral (not the first time the brand has shown in a church as it once took over the Marble Collegiate Church in New York), an episcopalian church on the Avenue George V where a number of other brands including Jil Sander, UnderCover and Uma Wang have also shown their collections. The significance of the location should also not be lost as the episcopalian faith is one that is based on a foundation of community and a love for others and the commonalities shared. Commonality and unification were also part of the designers master plan through bringing together those who he chose to walk his runway, he was sending out the idea that those who are under attack are unified and that is where they find their strength as the prospect of four more years settles in. On this he said “This amazing cast of people who are all living in fear right now…I wanted to show us together as a unified people, the beauty, strength, and the positivity in that.”
The cultural identities that the designer works tirelessly to represent, especially the Mexican-American Chicano culture and Latin-Americans contribution to the workwear narrative was present in today’s collection – it goes without saying that representation is a core value for the brand which never fails to recognise its roots. But in seeking to level up to meet the expectations of the European market there was a concerted effort to focus on the development of a more tailored aesthetic, so much so that these pieces were produced in Italy, as Chavarria said backstage “I really wanted to show a slightly more elevated perception of the brand, moving into Europe there will be a lot more tailoring and our production for that is now being done in Italy so you’ll see a lot more refinement.” This won’t mean the core customer is forgotten as part of Willy Chavarría’s brand strategy going forward a multi-tiered system will be put in place that will allow for multiple entry points “I am also growing my luxury business to be more luxury, while simultaneously growing my lower-tier business, so while I have finer fabrics coming from Italy, and made in Italy at higher price points, I am also offering other items that are at lower price points under the same label and I wanted to share that in one moment.” the designer explained. This is where the ongoing collaboration with Adidas comes into play, bringing in much needed brand amplification and financial support as well as allowing a broader range of customer to buy into the brand. Fall 2025’s inspiration was the world of football, a smart move for a European launch, as the designer explained “This season the collaboration with Adidas is very soccer driven, and I wanted to celebrate the Forum sneaker, which is one of my favourites so we have a version of it in the show. The Adidas collaboration is also part of that strategy to have lower-price tiers so all people can enjoy the brand.”
This was also a co-ed collection which featured an increase in form-fitting, rather than adaptable silhouettes for women, from tailored midi blazer dresses to skirt sets and button-front bustiers. Despite this, the designer confirmed there are no immediate plans to expand into womenswear, instead giving a glimpse of what’s to come should he change his mind saying “I’m not launching a women’s collection, but I do sell a lot of the collection to women’s buyers. I did want to do some key styles that were more feminine, for example the cocktail dresses and the bustier dresses with the boning in the hips. It was also an opportunity to really celebrate the female form, so we had Tokischa (Altagracia Peralta) and Becky G who are really feminine but have very powerful looks and that’s how I like to dress the woman.”
In a call to action, the designer spoke of the need for brands to be on the right side of history, stating “I feel as if many brands are too afraid to have guts behind their statements and I think we’re tired of just seeing pretty clothes” and as part of walking the talk there were a number of activations underlining todays show including a collaboration with Tinder with a ‘How We Love Is Who We Are’ sweatshirt made available for purchase post-show, championing the “love, equality and the fundamental rights of every global citizen” with Tinder making a donation to Human Rights Campaign (HRC). While a partnership with eBay, where the designer can often be found sourcing vintage archive stock to reimagine, resulted in the fall 2025 ‘Chuco Suit’ being made available to purchase on the site (until February 2nd) with 100% of proceeds benefitting the California Community Foundation Wildfire Recovery Fund honouring Chavarria’s Californian roots.
THE DIRECTION
THE QUOTE
It’s a compassion and it’s a willingness to take risks, but really to be on the right side of history. I feel as if many brands are too afraid to have guts behind their statements and I think we’re tired of just seeing pretty clothes, there’s so much of that and we’re all like okay. This is an opportunity to really make ourselves and each other think and feel differently. That is what fashion is for, this is the platform to do it, and I hope to have that influence in fashion”
Willy Chavarria, Creative Director, Willy Chavarria
THE WRAP UP
Although enthusiastically telling The Impression that he would love to return to Paris as what he brings is something he feels the city is missing “I will definitely be back in Paris if you’ll have me, but I am really happy to bring this perspective of fashion to Paris. I feel like I have something to offer which is maybe missing here and I am happy to come in and bring that to Europe.” He is likely to return to the New York calendar as the urgency and defiance of his message of unity and resilience needs to be heard among those who need it most. And if todays turn-out and show reception is any indication Paris could become a second home from which Chavarría can launch the second branch of his resistance.
