Redefining Machismo
Review of Willy Chavarria Spring 2024 Fashion Show
By Mario Abad
THE COLLECTION
THE VIBE
THE THEME
For Willy Chavarria, last season’s all-black collection was a palate cleanser to show the world he does “real fashion” in an effort to break away from the “streetwear” label the industry has often given him. So for this collection, he felt free to tap into his emotions and unleash his authentic self as a designer by leaning into the cultural references that have shaped him growing up. His oversized tailoring and imposing suits are still here, but this time he added more textures like sequins juxtaposed against humble fabrics like the sports mesh of basketball shorts, as well as religious and Catholic iconography.
THE BUZZWORDS
Poetic. Structural. Confident.
THE SHOWSTOPPER
Look # 51
In the spirit of couture houses showing bridal looks at the end of their show, Willy Chavarria showed his version with an all-white number with a billowing train that swept the runway as the model walked. His shorts underneath and puffy sleeves kept the look modern and fresh.
THE DIRECTION
The show was held inside the historic Woolmark building in downtown Manhattan where models emerged from a set of stairs to a soundtrack containing a mix of Latin music from cumbia to salsa to ranchera in honor of Chavarria’s Mexican roots.
THE QUOTE
Last season I was doing something where I wanted to be perceived at the highest level. I really wanted to be seen as a legitimate top-tier designer, right there with Oscar de le Renta and Saint Laurent. This season it’s still top-tier but I really dug into my own personal influences and cultural references that have built me as a designer.
Willy Chavarria
THE WRAP UP
Willy Chavarria stands out in the New York schedule for being someone who embraces his queer Latin roots unapologetically and taps into the “cholo” subculture (the use of hats was a reference to “machismo” in Latin cultures) while keeping things modern, elevated, and sophisticated. He should be commended for taking his design chops seriously and wanting to be perceived as among the best in the classical fashion lexicon. It was great to see him include the mix of sequins and basketball fabrics alongside his signature wide-legged silhouettes and oversized rosettes.
