Review of Tod’s Spring 2022 Fashion Show
Disarmingly appealing
By Lizzy Bowring
The authentic codes of style and quality have been omnipresent since the turn of the century when Filippo Della Valle first set up his small shoemaking shop in Italy. Tod’s has been synonymous with fine Italian craftsmanship ever since. This aesthetic of unique, uncompromising quality has become an essential part of the DNA for the brand, a symbol of Italian lifestyle and unparalleled quality. In the seventies, owning a pair of Tod’s Gommino shoes was akin to possessing a Louis Vuitton duffle bag, Hermes scarf or a Gucci handbag, for that matter, this brings me to today’s presentation.
Walter Chiapponi has been the Creative Director for the brand since 2019 and oversees both men and womenswear lines. This fashion veteran, formerly at Gucci, Valentino and Bottega, brings some solid pedigree to the table and, with that, is determined to carry Tod’s brand into the future with a timeless quality and a youthful, edgy spirit.
Referencing this raison d’etre, today, he presented youthful agility to his silhouettes. For example, feminine pieces came in flirtatious abbreviated lengths while knitwear as both team members at The Impression, Anna Ross and Dao Tran discussed:
Tom Daley was not the only one that picked up knitwear during the pandemic. It would appear that many designers have turned to crochet and macrame for adding dimension and texture to their collections, and to that point, the mini dress in crochet was a darling.
I particularly liked the sunray knitted dress, swinging seductively from the shoulders, the pleats of which were caught at the neck and edged in white. In addition, there were baby doll dresses and micro-mini shorts and skirts and tailored patch pocket jacket dresses. Quilted details appeared on sports jackets and padded collars on dresses added to the futuristic appeal. The attention to detail underscored the craftsmanship with edges of garments caught in contrasting leather.
Still, the sportswear items pivoted in this collection, pushing them firmly to the forefront simply by using fabulous colours. There is no question that gorgeous happy brights are bubbling up through Milan.
In the hands of Chiappoinin, Tod’s came to life with a futuristic touch. Sheer parkas came in clashing combinations of yellow and red or the season love affair with tangerine is played back with black, intensifying the colour even more.
The footwear and accessories were additional drawcards. Mini bags came in the same vibrant colours and all with Tod’s signature sole from the original driving shoe; bringing these well-known house codes house firmly into the future.
Since his arrival, Chiapponi has been steadily pushing the brand’s aesthetic in a new direction; that’s a good thing. This newfound youthfulness at Tod’s is disarmingly appealing.