While much of the Spring 2023 couture week attested to the luxury, grace, and elegance typically expected from haute couture, a sense of the surreal seemed to be on many designers’ minds as well as, using the language of excellence and unbound imagination in craftsmanship, they interrogated the limits of contemporary and historical fashion design.
While its internet reaction may be getting overshadowed by a misinterpretation of its stunningly life-like animal motifs as somehow justifying animal cruelty (when in fact the opposite is the case), Schiaparelli’s show was another masterclass in proportion and materiality from designer Daniel Roseberry. Not only was the collection’s craftsmanship worthy of the hautest heights of haute couture, but its exploration of surrealism – which in a few looks was enigmatically achieved through hyperrealism – showed that the legacy of Elsa Schiaparelli herself lives on.
Viktor & Rolf literally turned dressmaking on its head, referencing traditional and historic design while making imaginative, mind-boggling use of structure to parody and challenge the restrictive codes of femininity.
Jean Paul Gaultier takes home the top spot with its collection created by guest designer Haider Ackermann, who applied his minimal sensibility to JPG’s typically maximalist legacy for a sensual, powerful, and pure reinterpretation of the essence of Gaultier.
Here are The Impression Top 10 fashion shows of the Spring 2023 couture season as selected by our Chief Impressionist, Kenneth Richard.
10 – Chanel
9 – Schiaparelli
8 – Iris Van Herpen
7 – Alexandre Vauthier
6 – Lùchen
5 – Christian Dior
4 – Fendi
3 – Valentino
2 – Victor & Rolf
1 – Jean Paul Gaultier
