Bigger and Badder, No One Does Duality Like Dsquared2
Review of Dsquared2 Fall 2024 Fashion Show
By Angela Baidoo
THE COLLECTION
THE VIBE
THE THEME
Know thy customer is a mantra that Dean and Dan Caten of Dsquared2 must repeat as part of their brand philosophy daily, as what they’ve built caters to a customer who has continued to grow with them for close to 30 years. A customer who will have undoubtedly introduced their offspring to the ways of the jock-meets lumberjack-meets-playboy, ensuring the brand will see another 30 years of sucess. This season they presented two sides of the same coin. Asking the question of whether you were team Outdooring or team ‘Nocturnal Chic’? And in their response they pose a counter-argument of why choose, when you can have the best of both worlds.
Their escape outdoors came with designer dirt and larger-than-life fur trims on trapper hats and oversized bags. Embellished chaps were a cheeky nod to the Americana tropes which have become a staple visual marker for the brand – collegiate numerals and utility denim are surely best sellers at retail. But, look beyond the surface and there were looks that would work equally as well outside of the Dsquared2 universe. A doubled-up trench coat and biker jacket in khaki, dome studded denim, tailored tuxedo shorts, and a reversed blazer transformed into a minidress which came complete with a gold necklace also worn back-to-front to emphasise this new erogenous zone.
Almost simultaneously, as the main event started, then a second set of models emerged displaying Dsquared2 in eighties excess mode, which was a refreshing contrast to see an expansion of this part of the brands handwriting. One which is often included as the last few looks during their shows. And as has been highlighted in recent weeks, there is set to be a further timeline regression from the nineties to the eighties, so this emphasis on the decade – including big hair, leather on leather, and all-over sequin embellishment – is timely on the part of the brand.
THE BUZZWORDS
Eighties excess, gritty outdoors, unexpected experimentation
THE SHOWSTOPPER
Look #43
Nothing quite says duality than a hyper-feminine ruffled blouse and jersey shorts fit for a game of basketball. This look stands out for its recognisable affiliation to the Dsquared brand, but it also nods to the way in which men are being encouraged to experiment with their styling choices through sheer layering, embellishment, and softer colour palettes.
THE DIRECTION
THE WRAP UP
Taking the theme of duality to its natural conclusion, the design duo presented a collection which posed the question – which it also promptly answered – of ‘Why can’t you spend your days in the great outdoors then do a complete 180° with a weekend of full-on excess which takes its cues from the era of opulence?’
And as if to drive home the collections overarching message, both twins took to the runway for the final two looks, with the first in a navel-skimming sheer shirt, and in a runway moment that will be talked about for the rest of the season the second chose to go full-glam and reinvented himself as a flame-haired version of Linda Evangelista to the soundtrack of George Michaels “Freedom!”
During the finale each set of models walked the runway towards their daytime/nightime double driving home the idea of fashions power to transform, even in a time of ‘Quiet Luxury’ the founders of the Dsquared2 brand know that there are those out there who want to live their lives out loud, whether in the woods or walking the runway.
