The Subtle Spectrum of Hearst: Between Artistic Aspiration and Fashion Pragmatism
Review of Gabriela Hearst Fall 2024 Fashion Show
By Mackenzie Richard
THE COLLECTION
THE VIBE
THE THEME
As Gabriela Hearst steps into a new phase, dedicating her full focus to her eponymous label, her Autumn Winter 2024 collection was met with high expectations. Drawing inspiration from the surrealistic art of Leonora Carrington, the collection aimed to capture a blend of imagination, adaptability, and a deep connection with nature. However, despite the profound artistic influence and Hearst’s promise of a bold new direction, the collection predominantly played it safe.
While some pieces stood out with their intricate textures and attention to detail, the overall collection echoed past motifs and color palettes, signaling a continuation of the familiar rather than a leap into the unknown.
The collection, characterized by its return to basics, presented a blend of comfortable and classic styles. Key pieces like the inky raven blue knit dress highlighted the collection’s strength in texture development. However, the overall impact felt regretfully underwhelming, with a lack of dramatic shift or creative leap. The collection, while solid and competent, failed to fully capitalize on the surreal and imaginative potential inspired by Carrington’s work, leaving one to ponder the untapped potential of Hearst’s creative prowess we all know she’s capable of.
THE BUZZWORDS
Textural Intrigue, Understated Elegance, & Conservative Progression
THE SHOWSTOPPER
The standout piece in Gabriela Hearst’s collection, a white draped thread silk ensemble, beautifully encapsulates her exceptional craftsmanship and the collection’s creative vision. This piece marks an evolutionary step for the brand, highlighting Hearst’s remarkable strengths. Masterfully draped and plotted, the fluid silk threads exemplify her adeptness in fabric manipulation, creating a garment that flows with both movement and form. This ensemble merges traditional elegance with modern design, showcasing Hearst’s flair for sophisticated, artistically inspired creations. With its ethereal and refined appearance, the ensemble not only emphasizes the collection’s focus on textural intrigue but also subtly expands the brand’s aesthetic boundaries. Serving as a beacon within the collection, this white silk ensemble points to the heights of innovation and design excellence that Gabriela Hearst is capable of reaching.
THE DIRECTION
THE CONTEXT
The collection draws its inspiration from the surrealistic world of Leonora Carrington, an artist renowned for her dreamlike visions and hybrid figures. Carrington’s work, steeped in symbolism from ancient Celtic folktales, presents a blend of the mythical and the contemporary, encouraging a melding of old narratives with new interpretations
The collection aspires to embody the dynamic concept of flux and adaptability, a theme deeply ingrained in Carrington’s art. The collection is envisioned as a reflection of Hearst’s engagement with broad themes such as feminism, ecology, spirituality, and the healing power of nature. These motifs, central to Carrington’s mid-20th-century work, are intended to resonate with contemporary global concerns, giving the collection a sense of both timeliness and timelessness.
The collection is inspired by Surrealist beliefs in the power of the subconscious to challenge societal norms, including late capitalism. Hearst’s approach suggests a collection that transcends mere clothing, aiming instead to engage the wearer’s mind and intertwine art, history, and fashion into a rich, multifaceted narrative.
THE WRAP UP
Hearst’s first collection devoted entirely to her namesake label reflects a commitment to understated elegance and a nuanced approach to design.
The collection’s adherence to core wardrobe staples, albeit with interesting textures, suggests a quiet strength in subtlety.
Moving forward, there is an anticipation for Hearst to push her creative boundaries, to align her designs more closely with the transformative spirit of her artistic inspiration. It’s understandable that a designer would choose to progress their brand at a pace they’re comfortable with. However, there’s merit in acknowledging the importance of a pivotal moment and seizing the opportunity it presents. As Hearst continues to chart her path, it will be compelling to see how she evolves as a designer, potentially captivating both her existing clientele and new admirers with her unique blend of surreal inspiration and pragmatic fashion design.
