Boho Chic is Back!
Review of Chloé Fall 2024 Fashion Show
By Angela Baidoo
THE COLLECTION
THE VIBE
THE THEME
This may come down to the age-old adage of women designing for women, but here is a keen example of the difference it can make aesthetically. The Chloé fall 2024 collection was a potent mix of both softness (not to be taken in any way for weakness) and strength (in that she is a woman sure of herself). It also helps that the newly appointed creative director Chemena Kamali is a living embodiment of the brand – much like how Tom Ford was when overseeing Gucci and YSL – having worked under both Phoebe Philo and Claire Waight Keller during their tenures. Saying in a statement upon the announcement that she would be taking over the beloved French house “My heart has always been Chloé’s”, revealing that she hoped to build on the vision of the founder Gaby Aghion and the blueprint defined by Karl Lagerfeld early on in the Maison’s history. And that love was what shone through as the Chloé girl made a return to the stage, with her lightweight maxi dresses, thigh-high yet practical leather boots, and her check outerwear which will be familiar to many, and a compelling new proposition for all the Gen Zers re-watching old episodes of Gossip Girl or who have ever had original Boho girl Sienna Miller on their Pinterest boards.
This was a confident debut by Kamali, which celebrated all things Chloe, and rang the bell for the return of the boho chic era, which it must be said will be a nice shift away from the souped-up sex on a platter which has prevailed on the runways recently. And, yes there were an abundance of sheers, but as the silhouettes shown today were wholly removed from the body in trapeze and tiered shapes this was a somewhat chicer take on sensuality. The classic floaty maxi dresses and blouses could thankfully be worn layered effortlessly with the denim or leather pants and a silk camisole, in all their diaphanous glory.
Setting out her intentions for the New Chloé girl, Kamali had been curating a portrait series for the house (debuted on their newly wiped Instagram account, which seems to be the ongoing trend for luxury brands marking the start of a new creative direction) to “capture the emotion and energy of Chloé and the women who embody both its history and spirit” according to one post. And those women were thankfully multi-generational. From Liya Kebede and Jerry Hall to new faces Kristine Lindseth (who has walked for Celine, Louis Vuitton, and Chanel) and Ornella Umutoni (who has walked for Prada, Balmain, and Missoni). There was also the full-circle moment of a post featuring a photograph of pioneering model Pat Cleveland readying for a Chloé show, prefacing a rundown of classic moments in the houses’ history from across the decades, as the model was sitting front row in today’s show.
This also felt like an authentic dive into the archives and that French-girl style from the 1970s that was very knowing and self-assured, rather than what has been all-over TikTok as a paint-by-numbers way of putting it together. Colours recalled that soft romantic celluloid effect with creams and dusty blues, caramels and rose, nothing jarring or in-your-face here. While the cape (a signature Chloé shape) which has been seen throughout fashion month, in knits and furs and the finest cashmere, had a functional freedom to it, with the double layering and cropped capelets feeling like newer outerwear silhouettes to invest in. It also channels the idea of the perfect piece for the wearer to jump on the back of a motorcycle and take off, leaving her lover in her wake.
The branded script belt will also be a boon for all those seeking an access point into the world of Chloé, and is likely to find itself on luxury fashion resale sites in the years to come, if only for its resemblance to Carrie Bradshaws ‘Love’ keychain from the 2008 Sex and the City movie. And with it the creative director has surely created an iconic piece which is set to be one of the most called in items from the collection. That and the wooden clogs – whether classic or stacked – worn as part of a clever marketing strategy by those same ‘Portrait’ girls on the front row.
THE BUZZWORDS
soft femininity with an edge, knowing nostalgia, freedom
THE SHOWSTOPPER
Look #14
If a look summed up the ushering back in of the ‘Boho Chic’ era then its this revamped version of the floaty trapeze dress which billowed behind the wearer and speaks to both freedom and soft femininity by pulling on the heritage of the Chloè girl.
THE DIRECTION
THE WRAP UP
Is the industry ready for the return of 1970s bohemian Chloé by way of the 2010s ‘Boho Chic’ phenomena? There is definitely room for a revival of the theme, and Kamali’s first efforts have made a strong case that modernises the trend. But as with most of the debuts this season, in showing promise, we will also need to see how the floaty feminine aesthetic evolves across the next few seasons, as creative directors are rarely given time to embed their new direction for a brand before there are calls for something different.
But the Chloe girl is who she is – soft, strong, and sure – and as Chemena Kamali remains one of the few female creative directors to head up a major luxury house let’s hope her girl gets to play awhile in the sun.
