A Culture Clash Connects Past to Present at Moschino
Review of Moschino Spring 2025 Fashion Show
By Angela Baidoo
THE COLLECTION
THE VIBE
Awash with ideas, ordinary/extraordinary, perspectives
In contrast to the shows presented earlier today, Adrian Appiolaza is in favour of dressing alike. Not in the sheep-like way that is the cause-and-effect of endless GRWM’s and content creators pulling trends from thin air and mandating it as the uniform of the season. But for spring 2025 dressing as one is the mark of “kindred spirits”.
Thinking more about “communities of dress” derived from “cultures and subcultures” as the notes explained, this was the way we used to dress, before social media’s all access pass provided a window into the world of what once were actual alternative cultures. Now their most overt markers of dress are often hollowed out and marketed to the masses, losing all authenticity along the way. Moschino is instead looking to call in those ‘kindred spirits’ to join their herd, where group mentality is a good thing, as the designer sees strength in numbers while celebrating the individuals who can also co-exist within said group.
The Cool Britannia effect marches on at Moschino, not in the styling of the collection but in its collaborative partnerships, as Terry Jones – the British art director, editor, and founder of i-D magazine – developed a series of graphics “rooted in the ironic wordplay, wit and visual games that always inspired Franco Moschino” according to the brand. Calling it ‘Milan meets London, a spirit shared’ the late Judy Blame was an original member of the Blitz club crowd and a self-taught accessories designer, fellow art director, and stylist – developing relationships and looks for Neneh Cherry, Kylie Minogue, and Björks debut album in 1992. In a meeting of like-minds around creative freedom and an aligned cultural history (both Blame and Moschino are inherently linked with 80s and 90s club culture), pieces from the archive of Blame made a guest appearance in the show. His found objects which were subsequently turned into art, or objets trouvés, were showcased as original one-offs. Re-issued items (made possible with help from Trust Judy Blame) were remixed by the creative director bringing the past and present together. This was seen in a button and yarn embellished necklace that was also recreated as a trompe l’oeil layer underneath. An homage on homage.
Moschino tropes – from the polka dot to Popeye and Olive Oyl – were recreated as prints made using a biro pen scribble effect as opposed to a typical digital application, shifting our perspectives to something more naive and hand-rendered. Chalk drawings from Franco Moschino’s childhood were also unearthed and played their role as a youthful print. The everyday wardrobes from punk, grunge and prim princesses were part of the designs which had been modified so “the ordinary [was] made extraordinary”.
The set design for todays show featured numerous washing lines from which hung pristine white laundry, acting as a metaphor for blank sheets – the show also opened with a series of white looks representing the same – which is perhaps where Appiolaza sees himself, as a blank sheet (or canvas) ready for a new era of creation at Moschino.
THE DIRECTION
THE QUOTE
This season was a challenge to put into context the idea around putting a group of individuals into cliques, who connect via the way they dress, and the way they express themselves”
Adrian Appiolaza, creative director, Moschino
THE WRAP UP
In this collection Adrian Appiolaza has had the time and space to visit the archives and dig into the ways he will make Moschino relevant for a generation who may not be as familiar with its status as a fashion icon, and may only have heard the brand referenced via music videos from the early 90s, but in building a connection between Moschino then and Moschino now, we are starting to see the designer grasp how he can develop the house’s DNA while avoiding the nostalgia or kitschy trap.
And in this his first true womenswear outing after being named as creative director – his ‘first’ womens season was a hurried affair having only landed in the role three weeks prior to the fall 2024 show – we are seeing a lot of promise that he will confidently set Moschino on course to once again become a cultural instigator.
