Spreading Joy to the World
Review of Dries Van Noten Spring 2026 Men’s Fashion Show
By Angela Baidoo
THE COLLECTION
THE VIBE
Subverting elegance, recomposed wardrobe classics, unstructured eveningwear
The idea of stripping back, a concept which has been taking hold all season long, has also had the ripple effect of collections being created devoid of colour. And at a time when it, respectfully, makes sense to reflect the conflicts, political regression, and financial hardships happening in the world at large (for fashion does not exist in a bubble, although at times you would never know it), we can also acknowledge that we need to find moments of joy wherever we can. Least we slip into a state of despair with no hope of light at the end of the tunnel.
With that said, in his debut menswear collection since taking the reins at Dries Van Noten – after its founder bid adieu, or tot ziens last year – light is what Julian Klausner brought back to the world, of fashion at least. No empty slogans or forced fun to downplay current affairs, but simply great design ideas executed with a vibrancy that could only be described as megawatt technicolour rendered in the houses’ signature way with print and pattern, as well as a few new ideas thrown in for good measure.
Having been privy to his first thoughts on carrying the brand forward with his womenswear debut, there was the idea that our collective expectations had already been met (and satisfied that the legacy would remain intact, and not be revamped on a whim). But expectations can be exceeded, and in more ways than one, Klausner delivered the proverbial hole in one.
The statement outerwear, which was always the draw for anyone seeking to invest a months salary on a once-in-a-lifetime Dries purchase, became a canvas for the hyperbolic graphic prints in XXL proportions and eye-searingly vivid colour combinations. Likely to sell-out as soon as they hit the luxury ecomm sites, we can live in hope that we will get these prints across many more of the simpler silhouettes we saw in the collection, so that we may all have the opportunity to experience a small part of the new Dries. As for those for whom the financial outlay is of no great concern, the attention to detail, evident in each look, will be a tempting draw. Rather than simply printing on the silks selected for the relaxed shirts and shorts Klausner selected to meticulously patchwork these patterns and block colours together! Sleeveless tops with the slightest of peplums created by waist tabs were sewn with an atypical horizontal ‘bust’ seam creating an almost feminised structure, or in using feminine construction techniques, brought the garment closer to the body, that was intentional as opposed to a mere suggestion. The short short made an appearance, but this was no pandering to current trends, the cropped short is as much a Van Notenism as a palette of rich colour. Boxer and tailored styles were present and correct, but the knitted cycling shorts with embellished cummerbund was pure magic, and will be a styling trick that will hit the streets before this collection does.
Like the collection previewed a few days before from Louis Vuitton, south-east Asia could be seen as a reference point. As you could decipher the through line from the dress codes of men from the region inspiring brightly patterned sarongs, Nehru collared shirts, and a celebration of colour. Outlined in today’s notes, the creative director referred to it as “traditional yet daring”, a recomposition of formal and casual in a ‘youthful style’. The scaling up of hothouse florals on two-toned textured jacquards, flashes of flamboyance (a satin-collar tuxedo jacket in champagne) pared down with casual sweat pants, the striped pyjama set in the trending summer darks palette, and ‘elaborate embroideries’ on basketball shorts and a ribbed collar bomber jacket felt ‘carefree and liberating’ as todays show notes suggested they would.
THE DIRECTION
THE QUOTE
Approaching this collection, I had in mind the Dries Van Noten wardrobe that I always loved. Traditional yet daring. The different layers of dressing up.
Julian Klausner, creative director, Dries Van Noten
THE WRAP UP
In this his menswear debut, there was the distinctive feeling that a legacy was solidified, if the rousing five minute ovation was any indication of how the great and good of the industry felt. The ‘New proposals for men’s wear translated from women’s silhouettes’ were also some of the most exciting details from this collections and were a fitting experiment for the Dries man who has always been a little left of centre. As the soundtrack to todays show suggested, it was a perfect day indeed.
