2023’s Runway Rundown: Unforgettable Fashion Moments of the Year
By The Impression Team
From highly anticipated debut collections to new surprises from old favorites, the runways of 2023 were aglow with moments of dazzling creativity. Much ado was made about “quiet luxury” as fears of economic recession loomed large, but for the most part, it was the brands and designers that took risks rather than playing it safe that offered the most resonant runways.
The Impression’s editorial team takes a look back at the most memorable runway moments of 2023.
Sabato De Sarno at Gucci
After experiencing an average of eight shows a day over 102 days each year, one can become desensitized to the unique allure each show tries to present – what I call ‘runway blur.’ However, one moment that distinctly breaks through this blur is Sabato De Sarno’s debut at Gucci. This show, initially planned as an open-air event in Milan’s Brera district, was swiftly moved indoors to The Gucci Hub due to unexpected rain.
As guests arrived at The Gucci Hub, rain indeed persisted for a brief ten minutes, a backdrop to the venue which had hosted the works of De Sarno’s predecessor, Alessandro Michele. The production company, Bureau Betak, was tasked with a last minute venue change and they adapted marvelously, setting up a simplistic, box-shaped space with polished concrete floors with guest seated over oxblood colored carpet which was a key color of the collection. This minimalist setting provided a stark contrast to the drama of the collection. Despite the last-minute change, I couldn’t help but imagine the show in its originally intended outdoor setting, which I had explored the previous day, and how it beautifully translated in the indoor setting of The Gucci Hub.
Upon reflection the show unexpectedly held memory. In real time, it didn’t resonate as a ‘moment’ but in the rear view mirror it maintained something designers constantly strive for ‘memory.’ Giving me a lasting impression and hope for the evolution of Sabato’s tenure with Gucci.
–Kenneth Richard, Editor-in-Chief
Jacquemus Fall 2023 at Versailles
The Jacquemus Fall 2023 show, “Le Chouchou,” at Versailles emerged as a defining runway show moment of the year for its extraordinary fusion of historical grandeur and contemporary fashion. Set against the iconic Palace of Versailles, the show was not just a display of clothing but a comprehensive aesthetic experience. The venue itself, steeped in luxury and opulence, provided a stunning backdrop that elevated the event to a spectacle of grand proportions.
Simon Porte Jacquemus’ creative vision effectively bridged historical elegance with modern design sensibilities. Drawing inspiration from figures such as Marie Antoinette and Princess Diana, the collection showcased a thoughtful reinterpretation of historical fashion elements, integrating puffy 80s shoulders and ballet influences into contemporary styles. This blend of past and present was not only a nod to history but also a bold statement in current fashion trends.
The innovative presentation of the collection further set this show apart. The staging outside the palace, along with a red carpet runway, transcended the traditional fashion show format, creating an immersive experience that extended beyond the garments themselves. This approach highlighted Jacquemus’s ability to craft memorable experiences that resonate with audiences far beyond the immediate world of fashion.
Moreover, Jacquemus’s collection struck a perfect balance between elegance and whimsy. The designs featured inventive tailoring, with playful elements like backless blazers, cinched waistlines, and detached sleeves, exemplifying the designer’s signature style of combining classic elegance with a modern, whimsical twist.
The show’s cultural resonance and appeal to the youth further underscored its significance. By bridging the gap between the exclusivity of luxury fashion and contemporary sensibilities, Jacquemus managed to create a collection that resonated with a younger demographic, ensuring the brand’s continued relevance and appeal in the rapidly evolving fashion landscape.
In summary, the Jacquemus Fall 2023 show at Versailles was not merely a fashion event but a cultural phenomenon that seamlessly merged historical references with contemporary fashion, marking it as a standout moment in the fashion industry this year.
–Mackenzie Richard, Head of Editorial
Iris van Herpen’s Haute Couture 2023
2023 has been an intense year of fluctuation, with unprecedented shifts in the fashion paradigm and a world that needs an awakening on many levels, from diversity, inclusivity, sustainability, and the feminist voice to worlds at war. Iris Van Herpen is a creative designer who steadfastly presents her thoughts on these topical issues in mesmerizing collections that are as otherworldly as they get. Her collection for the Haute Couture season of 23 kicked the year off with thought-provoking, inventive storytelling. Herpen’s messages are palpable and memorable, using her creativity as an instrument of expression, and none more so than in celebrating women’s strength, resilience, and feminine beauty.
Van Herpen’s “Carte Blanche” was a powerful pictorial essay on the female body’s strength and capacity to take control and fight back. In an evocative short movie, this theme comes alive through a unique mix of choreography and free-diving. Organic creations flowed, cascaded, and enveloped the feminine silhouettes, swimming gracefully in an underwater ballet, bringing the garments to life through movement and prismatic color – her use of ethereal materials and delicate structures mirroring the complex layers of women’s experiences – fragile yet unyielding, subtle yet profound – a journey of navigating through life’s currents with grace and power. One can not help being caught up in the depth and intensity of her artistic skill and storytelling in this film. Its hauntingly beautiful imagery and choreography leave a lasting impression, inviting viewers to reflect on the depth and complexity of women’s experiences and their unyielding spirit.
Van Herpen proves that fashion can be a profound medium for storytelling, capable of capturing and expressing the most intricate and powerful narratives of human experience. “Carte Blanche” is a mesmerizing confluence of artistry and advocacy, a radiant example of fashion’s potential to be breathtakingly beautiful and deeply meaningful.
And worthy of additional mention. Van Herpen’s book, “Sculpting the Senses” dives deep into this visionary world, a captivating retrospective offering insights into her philosophy, inspirations, and the innovative techniques behind her collections. Accompanying her exhibition at the Musée des Arts Décoratifs in Paris, this book offers an immersive exploration that reveals how Van Herpen redefines “Haute Couture” in artistic expressions that challenge and expand our perception of what fashion can be – envisioning fashion as a catalyst for change, with a focus on sustainability and consciousness. Her work, deeply influenced by biomimicry, showcases her commitment to integrating natural patterns and cycles into her innovative designs. With a foreword by actress Tilda Swinton, the book emphasizes the transformative power of Van Herpen’s fashion. Her designs are portrayed as sculptures of emotion, redefining norms and femininity.
The film and the book celebrate Iris van Herpen’s visionary journey at the intersection of art, science, and haute couture. Both are unique and memorable, presenting a world where fashion transcends traditional boundaries, sculpting not just garments but the essence of creativity and innovation.
–Lizzy Bowring, Fashion Features Editor
Schiaparelli’s Couture Show
Schiaparelli caused a stir at the beginning of the year with its couture show that featured a trio of stunningly life-like animal heads. While the reference to the three symbolic beasts at the beginning of Dante’s Inferno was an unparalleled example of the highest levels of couture craft, much of the focus of online debates around it were, surprisingly, in reference to animal rights issues. Some viewers misinterpreted the unique design feature as glorifying the killing of animals, when in fact part of its message was that technology and creativity have advanced to such a point that using animal products will soon be obsolete – so much so that PETA decided to way in and express their support for creative director Daniel Roseberry and his team.
–Mark Wittmer, Senior Fashion Writer
Pharrell’s Debut at Louis Vuitton
Fresh off a Hong Kong destination show, which drew (and flew in) KOLs and VICs from across the region, as well as recentring the city as a cultural hub that is fully re-open for business, using the mighty clout of the Louis Vuitton name to close the Pont Neuf bridge in Paris, Pharrell, as the newly appointed creative director of Louis Vuitton Men’s staged his first runway show for the luxury house with a spectacle that didn’t disappoint both fans of the brand and the man. Continuing the legacy of Virgil Abloh (while forging his own path) the multi-hyphenate created his own yellow brick road on the bridge for his momentous runway moment, that was also a nod to his predecessor who had also been inspired by the Wizard of Oz in his work.
Having a number of brands and collaborations under his belt, the collection was a masterclass in how to merge commerciality with creativity. In the play on pixelated camouflage, clean-cut tailoring, and high-end takes on everyday sports apparel – such as a leather rugby tops and pearl-trimmed tracksuits. With 90% of the models carrying leather accessories or bags, including those made from highly-covetable exotic skins, this was an overt display of knowing what the Louis Vuitton customer wants and delivering in spades.
And with a runway show which morphed into a full-blown concert featuring Jay-Z, it was confirmed that the era of the superstar designer was back. Although not traditionally trained, there is an unquantifiable knowing that Pharrell boasts, or rather a plugged-in energy which has managed to predict what will shape the zeitgeist before it emerges, and in creating this social media marketing masterpiece many of the questions that were asked around his appointment were answered.
–Angela Baidoo, Fashion Features Editor