A Rough Opulence Rides Out at Sean McGirr’s Alexander McQueen Debut
Review of Alexander McQueen Fall 2024 Fashion Show
By Angela Baidoo
THE COLLECTION
THE VIBE
THE THEME
Its hard to imagine a stronger debut being orchestrated than the one which was presented today for Sean McGirr’s hotly anticipated first collection for Alexander McQueen, since his appointment was first announced in October last year. Set in a chilly concrete market, it set the tone as a more edgy space, especially in the way it was a call-back to a time when the brands late founder, Alexander Lee McQueen, held his ‘It’s a Jungle Out There’ show in a similar fashion at Borough Market, burning cars and all. Set to divide or unite critics, those of the professional and armchair variety, fall 2024 marks the start of a new narrative, and it would seem a visual language.
As many have voiced their dismay of collections pushing the virtues of the banal, McGirr’s first outing should not be faulted for being the exact opposite, as what he gave us was something to chew over and debate, these were clothes meant to poke and provoke. Starting with the underlying caveman like proportions – a similar ‘Early Man’ reference was seen earlier in Milan at Marni – there is something bubbling up around going back to primal instincts, and as todays show notes highlighted “Revealing the animal within”. And it was the right instinct for McGirr to follow, as with the responsibility of taking the helm of one of luxury fashions best loved brands, the best thing he could have done is pleased himself, rather than focus or even think about the opinion that others are going to project on his first show. Speaking backstage the designer said “When I saw the girls in the shows in the 90s, he was doing the opposite of what was happening in the fashion industry at the time. The models looked like people on the fringes, the outsiders and thats the thing I’m really interested in.”
Those looking for the McQueen of old would have had their hopes dashed, as today was about designing into the future, rather than reworking the past. As the McQueen DNA is so strong it can’t fail but to come through in some shape or form. Starting with the knitwear (which didn’t actually start the show) and its hyperbolic shapes which were an innovative use of the medium, tailoring featured sharp, yet moulded shoulders and a set of leopard-print gowns featured connected sleeves in a loop – a link to the cyclical nature of the industry? Comparisons will likely be made to Margiela and those oversized collar tops in mohair, but there are enough new ideas here for that to be forgiven. The simplest look of a zip-front peplum jacket was a wonder of engineering, as an exaggerated peplum floated away from the body. And the broken mirror dresses could easily have been metaphors for seeing things in a new light, something which is not about perfection but of breaking ground on new ideas. Ideas such as ‘Hoof boots’ again tying in the theme of the animalistic in us all.
Long-term collaborator of the brands jewellery – Shaun Leane – was also brought in to develop the arm and hand cuffs, lending a connecting thread to the houses’ past and present, as well as the future.
THE BUZZWORDS
Brave, instinctive, future-facing
THE SHOWSTOPPER
Look # 25
Not just a double-whammy, but a ‘quadruple’ collar seemed to encase the model in a hand-knitted tube of yarn, which leaves the mind to wonder as to how it will translate at retail, yet these are the statement pieces that are sure to ignite editorial spreads come September and revive the visual impact of ready-to-wear.
THE DIRECTION
THE QUOTE
McQueens message which he put out into the world is still so relevant. I’m into the idea of anti-politeness.
– Sean McGirr, creative director, Alexander McQueen.
THE WRAP UP
In only his first show as Alexander McQueen’s new creative director, Sean McGirr has made his intentions clear. Without diving to deeply into the archives – if at all – he is making McQueen his own and setting it up for a future which is bringing back the visionary, radical designs that the house was known for, with any luck each new season will give editors, critics and fans something to talk about, which will be anything but basic or banal.
