New York’s Belle Epoque?
Review of Christian Cowan Fall 2024 Fashion Show
By Mark Wittmer
THE COLLECTION
THE VIBE
THE THEME
Fall 2024 saw Christian Cowan experiment on injecting some belle epoque chic into his penchant for over-the-top party dresses, with mixed results.
The relatively more restrained first half of the show felt stronger, as the designer was able to make a more focused and impactful statement by limiting himself to a few elements, with the best pieces being the sheer slip dresses and louche suiting. But as he combined nods to turn-of-the-century French style with glittery drag-ball sleaze, some things got lost in translation. The two worlds never quite come together, and it makes for looks that seem strangely imbalanced as they bring together incongruous elements but can’t get either right.
THE BUZZWORDS
Campy. Nostalgic. Imbalanced.
THE SHOWSTOPPER
Look #24
This look felt like the most successful example of Cowan’s attempt to draw parallels between the party scenes of the Moulin Rouge and the Saint.
THE DIRECTION
THE WRAP UP
It’s exciting to see Cowan work to incorporate some fun historical references into his formula of over-the-top, party ready glam. Unfortunately, these two sides never quite came together, resulting in a bit of an identity crisis and a collection that felt caught in the middle.
