A New Era for Italy’s Largest Luxury House
Key Takeaways:
• Demna Named Gucci’s Artistic Director: The Balenciaga designer will take over at Gucci following his final couture show in July.
• Strategic Shift at Gucci: His appointment signals a push for revitalization amid declining sales and shifting creative direction.
• Balenciaga’s Next Chapter: Kering has yet to name Demna’s successor, but his impact on the brand has been transformative.
• A Bold Creative Gamble: Gucci is betting on Demna’s ability to blend heritage with his contemporary, culture-driven aesthetic.
Demna’s Move to Gucci Marks a Pivotal Shift in Luxury Fashion
Luxury’s biggest creative question has been answered: Demna is set to take the reins at Gucci. Announced by Kering, the parent company of both Balenciaga and Gucci, the news signals a dramatic shift for the Italian house as it seeks to reestablish its creative dominance. With Balenciaga’s creative direction under his leadership since 2015, Demna has redefined modern fashion, and now, he faces a new challenge—reimagining Gucci’s future.
The Georgian-born designer will officially join Gucci after presenting his final couture show for Balenciaga on July 6. His appointment follows a period of flux at the brand, which has struggled to regain momentum since the departure of Alessandro Michele in 2022. The transition also aligns with a broader strategic restructuring at Kering, as Gucci looks to rekindle its cultural and commercial appeal. Working alongside Gucci CEO Stefano Cantino, Demna is expected to usher in a fresh creative direction that blends his signature conceptual approach with Gucci’s storied heritage.
A Strategic Bet on Creativity and Innovation
Demna’s ability to disrupt and redefine fashion is well-documented. His tenure at Balenciaga transformed the house into a cultural force, merging high fashion with sharp social commentary. Over the past decade, he has redefined what luxury means, shifting the industry’s focus toward a more street-influenced, irreverent approach.
Now, at Gucci, he faces a new challenge: adapting his avant-garde vision to a brand with a deeply ingrained legacy. His first exposure to Gucci came in 2021 with the “Hacker Project,” where Gucci’s then-creative lead, Alessandro Michele, incorporated Balenciaga’s codes into his own designs. The project showcased an unexpected synergy between the two brands, hinting at what Demna might bring to his new role.
Speaking to the appointment, Kering’s Chairman and CEO François-Henri Pinault said, “Demna’s contribution to the industry, to Balenciaga, and to the Group’s success has been tremendous. His creative power is exactly what Gucci needs. As I thank him for everything he has accomplished over the past 10 years, I look forward to seeing him shape Gucci’s new artistic direction.”
Echoing that excitement, Gucci’s CEO Stefano Cantino said,“I have always admired Demna’s creative approach, that is both unique and powerful. His ability to honor the iconic legacy of a brand while embracing a modern sensibility is extraordinary. With Gucci’s strengthened foundations as a springboard, Demna will lead the House towards renewed fashion authority and enduring cultural relevance.”
The Challenge of Reinvention
Gucci has seen its fair share of reinventions. From Tom Ford’s sleek sensuality to Michele’s baroque maximalism, each era has reshaped the brand’s identity. Demna now has the task of crafting a new chapter—one that acknowledges Gucci’s past while steering it toward a fresh, globally relevant future.
One key question is how his distinct aesthetic, known for its dark, dystopian undertones, will translate to Gucci’s DNA. Industry experts have noted that while Demna’s design language is well established, its success at Gucci will depend on how he adapts it to fit the house’s unique legacy. His previous collections have oscillated between radical reinvention and meticulous respect for tradition, suggesting that he is prepared to evolve once again.
The appointment also comes amid wider structural changes at Gucci. Since Michele’s exit, the brand has focused on refining its operations, from improving product quality to streamlining supply chains. This groundwork ensures that when Demna arrives, he will be stepping into a company that is primed for creative reinvention.
A Shared Trajectory of Highs and Lows
Demna’s journey to Gucci is marked by parallels with the house’s own recent trajectory. Both have experienced meteoric rises, followed by challenging moments. Under Michele, Gucci saw unprecedented growth, but by 2022, momentum had slowed. At the same time, Demna faced backlash following a controversy at Balenciaga, which briefly threatened his industry standing.
Now, both Gucci and Demna find themselves at a crossroads, making this partnership a high-stakes creative gamble. For Gucci, his arrival represents a bid to regain its cultural relevance. For Demna, it is an opportunity to prove his versatility beyond the world he built at Balenciaga.
Gucci’s executives remain confident that this new direction will resonate with consumers. With the brand’s revenue declining from its peak of €10.5 billion in 2022 to €7.65 billion in 2024, the pressure is on for Demna to deliver. Meanwhile, Kering chairman François-Henri Pinault has expressed faith in Demna’s ability to lead Gucci’s resurgence.
The Next Chapter for Gucci and Balenciaga
As Demna prepares to step into his new role, the industry is left speculating about his successor at Balenciaga.
Meanwhile, Demna’s transition is already underway. He has begun immersing himself in Gucci’s archives, studying the house’s history as he formulates his vision for its future. His first collection for the brand is expected to debut in 2025, setting the tone for the next era of Gucci. Reflecting on his new journey forward, Demna shared, “I am truly excited to join the Gucci family. It is an honor to contribute to a House that I deeply respect and have long admired. I look forward to writing together with Stefano and the whole team a new chapter of Gucci’s amazing story.”
With this appointment, Gucci is making a clear statement: it is ready for a bold new direction. And with Demna at the helm, the industry is watching closely, anticipating what could be one of the most defining creative shifts of the decade.