New Look/New World
Review of Dior Spring 2026 Men’s Fashion Show
By Angela Baidoo
THE COLLECTION
THE VIBE
New Look/New World, Slow burn, Polished Prep
Whatever was unveiled for the debut Dior show of newly appointed creative director Jonathan Anderson there would have been those who loved it, those who hated it, and those left undecided. Seeking to defer their opinion until post-womens ready-to-wear and couture. And as the saying goes ‘Rome wasn’t built in a day’, neither as it happens was Dior, so as the last look left the runway, it became increasingly clear: Anderson is playing the long game.
But, did the pressure to perform get to the designer, or was what was debuted part of a master plan? Well, after a few hours to consider this question the answer lies in the fact that the designer may have made a rod for his own back after over-sharing on social media, from the ubiquitous Andy Warhol Polaroid of Jean-Michel Basquiat to the literal Dior book bags and the ceramic plate invitation. The lack of obvious connection between these inspirational ideas only served to heighten the fervour around what was to come. What they did suggest was a going against the grain, a little surrealism, and a twist on the classics – all things Anderson is famous for.
When our curiosity was finally satiated it felt like an anti-climax of sorts. The reputation the designer has built for subversion made palatable won him many plaudits at Loewe, but Dior is a different beast altogether, i.e. it’s a billion-dollar business whose public perception matters as much as its bottom line.
This may go some way toward explaining the focus on the foundation of heritage from which each successive creative director has referred to and made their own. For the designers take on the archive there was a looking back to the beginning and a quite unexpected take on Monsieur Diors New Look – a fit and flare jacket emphasised the hips and cargo pants which curled into plumes mimicking the fullness of a skirt at the back was inspired. Elsewhere there were twee knits with floral embroidery, military-inspired coats, and a number of variations on the cape. Having revamped the house’ logo to its original lower case origins, he designer wasted no time putting it to work with his version of logomania, taking centre-stage on knitwear and a tie styled in the reverse to highlight the new label designs.
Anderson has unwillingly become part of the new roster of names who will be remembered for debuting in 2025. And starting off with menswear has allowed for the proverbial easing in of his new – or not-so-new – house codes. Now, with his intentions set for how he plans to move forward with his creative ownership of the Dior stable, only time will tell if this was to be a fleeting or more permanent direction for menswear at Dior. One that is focussed on preppy classics with a couture twist or if Anderson is merely teasing us until the big reveal, which we can expect in five collections time, as he said pre-show, this is when we will see his vision fully realised and this new era truly come to light.
THE DIRECTION
THE WRAP UP
Having worked at both Loewe and his own brand for the better part of a decade a little carry over is to be expected as Anderson lets go of the muscle memory and builds a new persona for the Dior man, because as some of the looks were revealed on the runway for the first time there was a sense of Deja vu, with some designs such as the cargo shorts sailing very close to the creative IP of Loewe.
Anderson aimed to rewrite Dior’s codes through a lens of whimsy and cerebral references, but in tempering his usual subversion, he risked muting his own voice. Was this restraint a strategic slow burn—or a misfire in a house that demands immediate impact?
In Jonathan Anderson’s debut for Dior, his whimsy and juxtaposing of ideas, saw a definite tempering. Considering what is at stake for this billion-dollar brand, creative mis-steps and even a prolonged learning curve may not be tolerated. However, Anderson has been smart enough to caveat that it will take at least five collections to fully embed his tenure and truly steer Dior towards his vision. In the meantime the higher-ups can continue to have complete faith in their appointment – of Anderson – to the top job at LVMH.
