A Stripped Back Pivot Signals a Long Haute Summer for Dolce and Gabbana
Review of Dolce & Gabbana Spring 2025 Fashion Show
By Angela Baidoo
THE COLLECTION
THE VIBE
THE THEME
With a strong focus on the craft of weaving Dolce and Gabbana gave us what we had been searching for from the brand, for a few seasons now in fact, a new take on its modus operandi of souped-up menswear. The entire collection was on ode to summers spent on a great escape – a trending theme which is emerging this season – with the first section of looks a study into how to make raffia and woven leathers into independent structures which appeared to sit away from the body yet move with the wearer in unison. Raffia was the main event today, and is a material which other design houses have been playing with of late, as the material seems to symbolise summer so well, as a throwback to summers spent countryside living. But raffia and woven leather in straw hues, two-tone mixes and glossy blacks appeared to have been weaved around the bodies of the models and fit like living sculptures. Combined with the fluidity of linen and there was a clever play between structure and softness.
Being that it is Milan fashion week, you couldn’t help but note the Armani-esque undertones to some of the looks, especially those pleated trousers worn sans socks with leather woven shoes. But that homage can be overlooked for the way in which this collection was a (refreshing) break from the norm.
This season could very well see many brands doing the work to look internally and figure out what makes them and their viewpoint relevant in today’s fashion landscape. What makes their brand desirable to their customer? And are they playing it safe by resisting the urge to innovate? Or at least shed a few old ideas that no longer seem in step with how we want to consume fashion today. And for spring 2025 what Dolce and Gabbana showcased (whether just for this season or as an indication of a shift in the works at design HQ) was a progressive move forward, which some may have felt was overdue. The relinquishing of any unnecessary embellishment which is not from a natural material was something that no one saw coming, but may inspire a new customer base to give the brand another look.
THE BUZZWORDS
RTW Raffia, haute linen, the right stripes
THE SHOWSTOPPER
Look #15
If summer could be summed up in a look. Dolce and Gabbana created the ease which their customer wants to experience in the summer and heightened the experience through the unexpected addition of natural textures woven into a patchwork effect and extended across mini bags and tactile lace-up shoes.
THE DIRECTION
THE WRAP UP
Summer wouldn’t be summer without a statement-making look from Dolce and Gabbana, but spring 2025 will see a change in the brands handwriting as a concerted effort to shift away from ostentation resulted in one of the best shows of the season – taking into account London and Pitti Uomo – thus far.
Rich summer darks of forest green and burgundy, the reinvention of raffia as coveted oversized tops and sculptural outerwear, as well as weaving the material into mini and maxi totes and lace-up brogues and slip ons was the pivot that no one saw coming. This new path should be one the brand continues to focus on, as in this single collection they have communicated the desire for a new era to emerge, one we can all get on board with.
