Review of Ferrari Spring 2023 Fashion Show
The Dream of Dreamers
By Lizzy Bowring
So many innuendos can be made about the Ferrari collection – the roar of a Ferrari engine, lap three, racing into fashion, etc. Today’s presentation from the hands of its creative director Rocco Iannone was more than just references to the prestigious motor vehicle;
The Creative Director was passionate about capturing the “spirit of the times”, poignantly adding that the collection is also about culture, relevancy and values.
Iannone chose this season to consider the all-encompassing atmosphere of Los Angeles – where one can dare to dream, where anything is possible. The iconic Ferrari brand was instrumental in evoking such desires. I went to Los Angeles because it is a strong inspiration for me.
I wanted to go so I could connect with all the brand’s iconic elements – music, cinema and contemporary art- and infuse the human elements of self-expression, passion and freedom.
His story also bears every relationship to the Ferrari brand, pictorially mentioned in the accompanying book with references to previous owners of a highly desirable Ferrari – Monica Vitti, Norma Shearer, Mick Jagger, Kate Bush and Sylvester Stallone – amongst the few.
To set the tone, the collection was held in the intimacy of Milan’s recently refurbished Teatro Lirico. A mini-movie preceded the show in a plush red theatre setting that stemmed from a creative conversation between Iannone and the Italian–Canadian photographer and Director Floria Sigismondi.
And then, the curtain raised, signalling the start of this fabulous and ‘racy’ outing. Four looks appeared in succession – a utility theme, rendered in olive-green cotton cleverly gave way to a work inspired overall in the Giallo Modena yellow – both silhouette and the colour exciting the senses. The sixth silhouette with an abbreviated halter top gives the first glimpse of Californian palm trees – a print that ran through the collection – the early stages of which were already beginning to show signs of continuity; an attribute that appears to be lacking in several showings of late. Further iterations of this vibrant print followed in graphic motifs of camouflage and brush effects that recalled the concept of mixing. Incidentally, the colours running through the collection were inspired by a palette of green, Rosso le Mans Red, and Giallo Modena yellow, enhanced by fresh summery hues of light blue, khaki and earthy shades.
The silhouettes kept coming in a formulaic procession, weaving through the theatre’s aisles in a spectacular convoy. Tailoring, workwear and racing elements coexisted throughout, expressing the different souls of Ferrari.
The brand’s iconic silhouettes were reinvented with a distinctive casual and relaxed ambiance. While the sport/utility theme continued and added to the mood, it was clear that the volumes were equally crucial to Iannone. He engineered the volumes and cuts to be as precise as the engineering of the brand’s vocabulary. The classic racing item, the ‘pitstop’ overall, is reinterpreted – a red leather with contrast racing-black insets for women and tan for men. Mentioning leather, it is essential to state that Ferrari’s commitment to social and environmental issues advocates the use of low-impact materials. Just a tad incongruous, bearing in mind that motors are a significant polluter of the environment!
Iannone is acute in his approach to design; there is no stone unturned in his repertoire. To combine the sartorial workwear materials and fine fabrics, as in the construction of the lexicon, his research of processing techniques is thorough as seen through the lens of high-quality Italian craftsmanship.
No racing event is ever complete without the celebratory nightlife. Here, Iannone shone. These silhouettes of Skirts, dresses, and jackets were a clever combination of workwear pieces and came embellished with sparkling embroideries made with hardware sourced from Ferrari. Screws, nuts, and bolts shone iridescently with reflective crystals and glinting paillettes, while the Ferrari prancing horse pendants added more chrome-bar shine.
When asked post-show about his inspiration, he referred to Los Angeles again “ the lights, capturing the lights of Los Angeles”
This collection was both coherent and exacting. It bears no pretenses; the distinctive, relaxed tone represents the synthesis of performance, lifestyle, and the fluidity of expression. Iannone once again re-iterated the importance of Culture, relevancy, and values. “we need to emphasize how much it is possible to create the connection between us and the human side. Added to this: Freedom; these were his parting words.