Amore Ancora
By Lizzy Bowring
THE COLLECTION
THE VIBE
THE THEME
Love is in the air, with every sight and every sound! Sabato De Sarno sent out his first collection for Gucci with laser-sharp precision, both in clothes and the marching order, and it was nothing short of gorgeous. Within his vision, less is more; in this case, mini–malism met maximal impact. Sabato artfully stripped away the excess, revealing the raw essence of Gucci’s legacy, yet layering it with fresh, youthful exuberance. The collection was a nod to pragmatic elegance. Designed for young women navigating the real world, the line-up featured well-tailored pieces, tailored for daylight sophistication before transitioning to evening allure. Little slip dresses, micro mini shorts/skirts, precision cut coats, and suits, and an enigmatic color palette featuring shots of lime, beige, ominous black, and lustful, desirable red – which Sabato calls Rosso Ancora. And yes, the handbags, covered in rhinestones and glitter to match the outfits – Gucci’s emblematic cash cow – were plentiful, reiterating their significance in the fashion milieu. Diving deep into the archives, Sabato seamlessly wove history with modernity. The spotlight shone on the legendary Jackie and Bamboo bags, their iconic essence masterfully and meticulously refined. Intricate embroideries from 1950s clutches were muses for gleaming crystal patterns that embellished sleek minidresses and elegant pumps. A blast from the past, the Marina Chain jewelry, which graced the Gucci chronicle in the late 60s, marked its resounding comeback, capturing the essence of a bygone era yet fitting seamlessly into today’s fashion lexicon.
THE BUZZWORDS
Up to 3 keywords (five max) that encapsulate the collection. Laser-focus, Couture-perfection, Sensuality, Mini-malism, Shiny, Tactile
THE SHOWSTOPPER
Look # 21
The collection had an undeniable directness and precision – one couldn’t miss the Valentino undertones from Sabato’s last chapter. It shone through in the vibrant lime coat, laser-cut with precision, serving as a perfect counterbalance for the dancing strands of rhinestones. And beneath this stellar display were those chic shorts, harmonizing with a knit henley tee – a sonnet of simplicity amidst the symphony of splendor!
THE DIRECTION
In a bold reimagining for Gucci, the presentation of clothes spoke volumes, exuding unbridled sensuality and youthful audacity, all underscored by laser-cut precision. These pieces didn’t just champion modern feminine autonomy — they embodied it, perfectly capturing the pulse of today’s generation. With the cultural shifts as their backdrop, the designs were a poignant reflection of the current zeitgeist, heralding the dawn of a fresh narrative for the iconic brand. Today, Gucci transcended mere fashion; it became an electrifying dance of emotions. As Mark Ronson’s beats set the tempo, interwoven with remixes from Romy, Lykke, and Mina, 55 multifaceted looks took center stage, each a testament to craftsmanship and vision. The collection resonated with notes of euphoria, evoking memories of dance-fueled nights and heartfelt melodies. Through this presentation, Gucci seamlessly stitched together the past, present, and future, promising an exhilarating chapter ahead.
It’s a story of joy of life, of passion, of humanity, of people, of real life, of irreverent glamour, of provocation, of confidence, of simplicity, of immediate feelings and emotions, of a specific type of art, of words – words in artworks, words in pictures, words in spaces, just words. – Sabato
THE WRAP-UP
The rain did not deter Gucci’s new dawn. Pouring rain might have changed the show’s location, but it could hardly dampen the spirit. Shifting from the heart of Milan to Gucci’s sprawling workrooms on the city’s fringe, the show adapted, much like the brand itself under new leadership. Sabato’s message was loud and clear: “I was thinking about Gucci, GUCCI.” Not as a defiant shout against the echoes of Tom Ford’s sensual extravagance, Alessandro Michele’s eclectic exuberance, or even the intellectualism of Prada. But there is a provocative intelligence in this collection, and it’s one that has a laser focus on what Gucci stands for today.
