Review of Litkovska & Jean Gritsfeldt Fall 2023 Fashion Show
Ukraine Wins Berlin Fashion Week
By Dao Tran
It’s been almost a year since Russia shocked the world and flagrantly invaded Ukraine, and they show no signs of letting up their war of aggression, cruelly violating international human law in targeting civilians and critical energy infrastructure, leaving swaths of the country in the cold and dark of winter. As defense ministers meet at Ramstein Air Base in Germany to discuss future military aid, the international coalition holds strong in their commitment to Ukraine. And Berlin Fashion Week in their commitment to Ukrainian designers, hosting them with generous support from the Berlin Senate Department for Economic, Energy and Public Enterprises.
Be it the power of the live singers performing the “Vesnianka” songs, traditional Ukrainian spring greeting hymns, resonating through the imposing space of the Feuerle Collection, a former WWII bunker turned art institution where it was hosted, or simply the beauty, grace and coherence of Litkovska’s Vesnianka collection, bathed in the warm light of spring – everything came together to produce such an impactful show that everybody coming out of there was moved. I’m not crying, you’re crying. A heartfelt thank you to Lilia Litkovska for seeing and manifesting the hope for spring and a new beginning in the darkness of war.
And congratulations for being able to integrate your symbols of national pride and identity in a way that is elegant, wearable and legitimately fashion. It could be difficult to incorporate ethnic elements without being kitschy, folksy or costumey, yet Litkovska does it in a way that shows a keen design eye and is never heavy-handed.”
Witness: an ostensibly straightforward vest suit that you could wear to work, with a crochet back which makes it totally fun to wear out. In fact, all of the back detailing is great. Think Gabriela Hearst for Chloé, but meaningful and better.
It is heartbreaking to be uprooted from your homeland, and any piece of home which gives you comfort and a feeling of connection is to be cherished. The styling in the show of trailing the traditional scarf as a wrist accessory is a clever and cool way to wear your heart on your sleeve for Ukraine.
Not to mention the must-have tunic for your next beach vacation or this avant garde ensemble for an art fair are embroidered with a poem titled “A Prayer of a Ukrainian Patriot,” written in blood by a political dissident on the walls of his cell in the 1930s. Such a statement, yet so discreet.
As is Litkovska’s tailoring, which is impeccable and well made, with interesting silhouettes and deconstruction in just the right amount – to be rebellious but presentable, subversive but sophisticated.
One gentleman commented that someone should blow her up and get her to The Row – we maintain she deserves to blow up in her own right.
Jean Gritsfeldt
A fellow Ukrainian who provides an interesting counterpoint is Jean Gritsfeldt, one of the fastest growing and most popular Ukrainian fashion brands. He is an audience darling who loves to ham it up for the camera. Think: the Ludovic de Saint Sernin of Kyiv. This is a brand that flourishes from the charisma of its founder. Titled “Born in Kyiv. Sculptor of Love,” Gritsfeldt conceived this collection as a playful form of protest art:
Because inhumane systems will only be overthrown by the transformative power of love energy, people will reach for their inner light and purity that flows through the debris of the obsolete. My work is supposed to awaken the most loving version of yourself. Your inner superstar.
Superstar it is, with plenty of glitz and glitter and sequins for all.
It’s giving 80s Eastern Bloc aesthetics with gold and silver leather, and those shoulder pads for good measure. As well as modern knits. In short, it’s like opening up a big chest of dress up and time to have some fun.
But also protest. Gritsfeldt himself sported the quote “Beauty is not a reason to deprive me of my body.” A girl lifted the flap of her long white skirt to say: “We are in all of this together.” The gentleman in a three-piece suit took off his jacket to expose the back of his vest printed with “Beauty and love should not be a call to death.” The girl with the duct-taped dress (a reference to the makeshift austerity of war) had “Cover my back, I’ll cover yours” on her back. Cupid’s message was: “Freedom and love are the two wings of poetry! Everything else is just decoration.” And the woman in the closing red sequin dress ripped off the bloodstained wrap to expose the invocation: “Unite everyone.”
On that note – Slava Ukraini! Glory to Ukraine!