The Accelerated Eccentric
Review of Loewe Spring 2027 Fashion Show
By Angela Baidoo
THE IMPRESSION TAKE
Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez’s Spring 2027 collection for Loewe sharpened their emerging vision for the house by filtering American sportswear through its established eccentricity, with a greater emphasis on commercial, everyday silhouettes. Day-glo colour, fuzzy textures and spiky embellishment energised tunic-and-skirt sets, peplum dresses and windbreakers, demonstrating how the duo can temper experimentation without losing the directional character of their first seasons.
Creative Directors: Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez
House: Loewe
Collection: Spring/Summer 2027
Presented: Paris Fashion Week
Reviewed by: Angela Baidoo
The Impression Review Score by Kenneth Richard: 9
View the Full Collection
Taking Loewe’s established eccentric codes and pairing them with a heightened emphasis on American sportswear Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez are making fast work of creating a highly desirable, yet accessible iteration of the brand that still has a sharpened eye for the surreal.
THE COLLECTION
THE VIBE
Sportswear, sartorially speaking, has been a key part of luxury fashion since designers started to partner with major sportswear brands to benefit from their expertise, but also take advantage of their dedicated fan base. From the early days of the Jil Sander collaboration with Puma in 1998 to the launch of Wales Bonner and Adidas in 2020, the relationship between the two categories has always yielded positive results.
In this their third outing for Loewe, Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez are borrowing the quirkier design handwriting from the brands previous incarnation (as this is a trait that its customers still look to the brand for) and making it their own, but with an eye toward commerciality.
The decades-long Americanisation of the Paris runway, through street and sportswear, is an indication of the level of performance women expect from their wardrobe. This explains why wearing yoga pants throughout the day led to the rise of Athleisure. As once the realisation that comfort did not have to be an either/or choice women were sold. So, it seems only logical that the duo, who hail from the US, would blend the ease of sportswear into their sartorially surrealist narrative. Both as a way to ground their collections and as a vehicle for their savvy use of colour.
Day-glo brights and classic prints (chevron stripes and ditsy florals) were used across silhouettes that were slightly less experimental than in their first two seasons but presented no less of a directional point-of-view. Simple shapes such as longline tunic and skirt sets, and peplum dresses were turbo-charged with fuzzy textures and spiky embellishment. Utility coats featured glossy over-collars in ombre that looked as if they were mined from The Fifth Element movie. And in the preppy-meets-corporate styling there was a tinge of the eighties-meets-nineties. Imagine what the kids from Saved By the Bell might wear if they were all grown up and worked in finance. Aqua pants paired with grey marl sweaters, striped bombers and sheer pencil skirts, and cobalt windbreakers with a cheeky mini short.
The ‘New’ Loewe woman and the strong start to the duo’s man are benefitting from bold, statement silhouettes that challenge the wearer to rethink how American sportswear can be worn today. Updating classics with an injection of colour, sweeping fabric across the body, creating dramatic angles and peeling open waistlines to add a dose of the eccentric to what you might consider wearing every day.
THE WRAP UP
McCollough and Hernandez are fast establishing their version of Loewe by turbo-charging the familiarity and ease of American sportswear with vibrant colour and just enough surrealism to ensure the everyday never becomes ordinary.
After their more experimental silhouettes from the first two seasons, Spring 2027 felt like a conscious move towards accessibility without losing the directional point-of-view they are developing. The tunics, pencil skirts, windbreakers and bombers may have felt familiar, but fuzzy textures, spiky embellishment, peeled-open waistlines and unexpected colour combinations gave them the required Loewe twist.
