Louis Vuitton Asks Whose World is This? The World is Yours
Review of Louis Vuitton Spring 2025 Men’s Fashion Show
By Angela Baidoo
THE COLLECTION
THE VIBE
THE THEME
It is fitting that we began the June Men’s season with ideas around freedom, and now we are moving onto a concept that is equally, if not more important, and that is unity. Menswear for Louis Vuitton has in the last decade come to represent this grand idea, from the era prior to Pharrell Williams start until now. The encompassing of ideas from all corners of the globe, unified under the umbrella of fashion, was no doubt one of the many reasons for the multi-hyphenate creatives appointment. There is also his harnessing of the culture of the moment (which Williams excels at, if you look back to the early 2000s when he ruled the Billboard Hot 100, producing many of the hits which occupied the top 10 and turning a generation onto his unique sound as a producer when he was part of The Neptunes) which is being ingrained into the Louis Vuitton Mens division as part of a transformation to create a “cultural brand”.
The spring 2025 collection titled ‘Le Monde est a Vous’ translates to ‘The World is Yours’ and is a phrase often referenced from Al Pacino’s character Tony Montana – aka Scarface – in the era-defining film of the same name. It has also been a favourite line which is widely used and loved by rappers from the hip-hop community, a community whose style and influence can often be seen throughout the collections Williams has produced for the house so far. Set in the newly ‘Damier’d’ gardens of the UNESCO (United Nations Educational, Scientific, and Cultural Organisation) building, the choice of location was particularly poignant as it made a subtle statement on the need for solidarity without further need for explanation. As it is something that a simple scroll of our feeds will remind us of on a daily basis.
Todays cultural influence broadened the artistic directors scope with a global lens, as a film released prior to the show was made in collaboration and directed by the creative collective of Air Afrique (who took their name from a Pan-African airline which connected West Africa to the world, were previously backed by Bottega Veneta, and also produce a bi-lingual journal) and featured a holdall bag – in the film and in the collection – in the distinctive Air Afrique tartan which was used across their range of luggage.
Cameroonian Contemporary African art critic and writer Simon Njami also came on board to work on the project which was filmed in the UNESCO building and included the literal next generation – Gen Alphas – as mini-me diplomats, poised to solve the problems of a world they are set to inherit. In it a speech is read by Njami, which cites Aimé Césaire’s definition of universalism “as the sum of all particularisms.” Going on to say “To preserve the diversity that makes the world so beautiful, this must never be forgotten. In harmony with this universalism is the vital need to maintain unity between all beings for the only way to preserve the future [is to] envision a united humanity”. The onus was then put on the ‘child diplomats’ as the future generation to make this world better, for it is their inheritance. This was Air Afrique’s message of hope which precluded the spring 2025 collection.
With a globe-like structure creating a central focus of todays runway show and hitting home todays theme, ideas around globalisation could be seen throughout. A satellite image of the world was used as an all-over print on a bomber jacket then pixellated as a sort-of new camo. Football – that great uniter – was also playing on Williams mind (Germany is currently hosting the European Football Championship) as soccer jerseys and soccer-shaped bags got the LV Lovers treatment.
It was surprising that todays collection had as many pared back moments as statement ones, which could be a window into how Williams sees his world of menswear and its sartorial codes. Pyjama style sets, a slightly shrunken double-breasted suit, collarless leather jackets and minimalist cargo pants could all stand-aside from the maximalist looks and act as the foundation of the future of menswear at Louis Vuitton. But the new Louis Vuitton customer – which consists of NBA stars, K-Pops finest, and Hollywood’s new guard – also got what they came for. A glossy red PVC anorak is sure to be seen fresh of the runway at next seasons “tunnel-walk” while pussy-bow collars were pushing the boundaries of what the customer could be eased into trying, as they flowed freely from necklines, but also sat neatly inside a suit jacket. Pants were also worn slouchy and short sets came in a palette of neutrals or check patterns.
This collection offered a continuation of the Williams brand-universe building that is starting to come to fruition as each season passes, and whose case was made all the stronger for the collaborative storytelling and the underlining message of hope and unity.
THE BUZZWORDS
One world, universalism, unity
THE SHOWSTOPPER
Look #71
The spring 2025 collection is one of hope, hope that the next generation can be empowered to change the world for the better through unity, as well as collaboration, and here Pharrell Williams puts that idea front and centre.
THE DIRECTION
THE QUOTE
In harmony with…universalism is the vital need to maintain unity between all beings, for the only way to preserve the future [is to] envision a united humanity”
Pharrell Williams for Louis Vuitton collaborator Simon Njami, writer and art curator.
THE WRAP UP
The idea of universalism – and that we should use it to bring the world together – was a solid place from which to start todays collection, the message of hope could be found in the grounds, in the shows film, but also in he way that the artistic director combined more traditional menswear with his signature statement silhouettes, so Williams leaves us to question, if the ‘World is Yours’ what do you intend to do with it?.
