Marine Serre Goes From the Moon and the Star’s to the Grocery Store
Review of Marine Serre Fall 2024 Fashion Show
By Angela Baidoo
THE COLLECTION
THE VIBE
THE THEME
The format of the marketplace – used in the past by Stella McCartney and Karl Lagerfeld for Chanel – is a sure-fire way to get editors engaged during show season, where up to 10 shows and presentations are attended a day.
For fall 2024 Marine Serre called us to market – her market – for her Paris runway show which was a riff on, yes you guessed it, the everyday. But in its very down-to-earth setting of a multi-use venue called Ground Control which is an indoor/outdoor hybrid industrial “third space, former railway shed, regenerated…space which acts as a cultural, social, sustainable and environmental player. Echoing the values of the house.” as the brand announced via social media, this was a more in-tune approach which spoke for itself as the message and the medium completely aligned.
In its very ‘normal’ setting, which is likely used by those who are part of the Marine Serre community on a daily basis, we were presented with clothes that you could actually envision women (men and babies) wearing, going about their day-to-day lives. With a multi-generational inclusive cast of real people this was a show that was much more grounded in reality, without having to speak too much to it post-show. As each look made its way around the concrete space, it perfectly melded with the backdrop. You could see the way in which the designer had created a vision for a sense of place for her fall collection. As utility sets branded with her signature moon print, elevated ath-leisure, spliced up-cycled fabrics in snakeskin print covered midi dresses and trench coats, as well as what appeared to be the perfect knitted navy mini dress, were walked around show-goers sat drinking tea at coffee tables using branded cups. And speaking of branding – similar to Balenciaga’s LA show which collaborated with uber-luxe grocery store Erewhon to produce a paper bag bonded with leather for durability – Marine Serre took to the branding of a variety of household and consumer good with gusto. From the typical designer thermos and coffee cup to a baby carrier, shopping trolley, pizza box, and yes even a paper bag. Always keeping things as sustainably-minded as possible her show invitations were reusable shoppers, and in choosing the space she said, “I like to find a place which already has an energy, and many times when you make a show it’s in a box and I’m very much against that, so its more ecological (hosting in the Ground Control market) because everything we used in the set was found in this space”.
THE BUZZWORDS
Everyday joy, everyday ease, everyday empowerment
THE SHOWSTOPPER
Look #41
Created using up-cycled silk scarves, Marine Serre today continued her love affair with couture and included finale looks which merged craft and sustainable design. With the designer saying “Even if the show is about daily (wear), I still love to do couture”.
THE DIRECTION
THE QUOTE
I wanted the woman to feel at ease in the garment, but at the same time graceful and empowered. And for that to happen the garments need to be comfortable and easy to dress. Even if it means going biking in a transparent mesh dress. It should be possible for women today. As a woman designing for women, it’s important to be able to breath and still feel graceful”
– Marine Serre, creative director, Marine Serre
THE WRAP UP
There was a real sense of joy in the designers fall collection as she continued to rework her signature moon print across different categories, and her play with branding items outside of fashion is sure to provide a revenue driver for next season. While her street casting – a method that many other brands seem to have abandoned – on real people will actually resonate as a designer who is designing clothes for the everyday.
