A (Friends and) Family at Affair at Marques Almeida
Review of Marques’Almeida Fall 2024 Fashion Show
By Angela Baidoo
THE COLLECTION
THE VIBE
THE THEME
Todays show felt like an acknowledgment of the fact that, many of the customers who grew on Marques’ Almeida will likely now be in the parenting phase of their lives. More than a ‘Mummy and Me’ moment, it was a full-on indoctrination of Generation Alpha who are already starting to wield their financial and fashion influence on the industry. Not content to wear what their parents pick out for them each morning, they have fully formed opinions on how they want their utility jacket styled with their dropped-waist dresses. Marta Marques and Paulo Almeida told The Impression backstage that the kids who modelled (pairing up with approximately 60% of the models in todays show, which also included an old Christian Lacroix model with her 3 children) gave their views on what they would and would not wear – which may be the reason they say never work with children, for a fashion show at least. On their opinion of the collection Marques said “It’s very cool to get that difference (of opinion), but there was a girl whose mum texted the night before and said ‘Please don’t put her in any dresses, she’ll hate it’, and we said thats fine we’ll work around it. the more we get them in, the more we are going to learn, and the more it will feed into the kids clothes” with Almeida adding “..thats the amazing thing working with M’A people, we always get inspired by the way they dress and the way they combine things. And these kids are the coolest as they have no pre-conceived ideas, they just go for what they actually want”.
Outlined in the brands manifesto, the duo have vowed to ‘To do continuous research on how to improve our products and actions for a positive impact on the environment and the planet, protecting it for future generations.’ So it’s a full-circle (or circularity-focussed) moment that kids are being included more and more as part of the brands strategy. Having launched collections for them in 2021, which was well received by their community, the range is available via their own channels allowing them control over the buys and the styling. An important factor for any parents wishing to extend their purchases into that category. And rather than looking to create carbon copies of their bestsellers, girls got puff-sleeve graphic T-shirts and edgy puffer jackets and the boys, oversized cargo shorts and raw-edged denim jackets. As if there is one thing Generation Alpha is adamant on, it’s not dressing like their parents, even if they both have an affinity for the same luxury brands.
Outside of questioning whether the mini sizes will get an adult offering, the mainline was a roll call of the brands most-beloved silhouettes, which saw them missed when they skipped the spring 2024 season last September. But they more than made up for the absence with a collection of looks for women of all shapes and sizes, and now ages. An underrepresented group which Marques said was one who they had unintentionally left out of the conversation in their mission to be a platform for positive change. On this she said “Coming from the 90s, there is always this idea of youth in fashion, and you get stuck in this idea, then we had a lookbook and an image on a girl who was a tiny bit older, and it caught us in that moment that for all the harmful stereotypes which we have fought hard to exclude, age is something that we have totally overlooked. Its a natural progression and we just want to keep learning about these things and be more inclusive.”
Returning to London fashion week to a full house is testament to the community the brand has built and that it’s silhouettes still stand up in today’s fickle trend-driven world. Their signature tapestry-style brocade fabric suddenly looks fresh again which could be down to it being rendered in a longline corset layered over a lime pleated dress or in ultra-wide leg trousers. While the gowns – styled to appear as adaptable for anytime of the day – with full skirt slightly dropped from the waist or hiked up to just under the bust were a welcome return to form. Denim also received the same development and offers an alternative to the distressing seen of late.
THE BUZZWORDS
Return to form, curation by community, Gen Alpha aesthetic
THE SHOWSTOPPER
Neither loud nor statement, but there was something in the rock and roll styling of the lofty knitted cardigan, unexpected ‘hairy’ mohair biker and gold brocade flared trousers, the likes of which haven’t been seen for a decade is reason enough to believe it could mark the start of a new direction for the duo.
THE DIRECTION
THE QUOTE
We went to places that were perhaps almost taboo words for Marques’ Almeida, like elegant. The way we played with big satin shapes and embroidery…we always do it in a grungy way, but it was elegant, which is still a word that is scary for us.
Marta Marques and Paulo Almeida, Creative Directors, Marques’ Almeida
THE WRAP UP
In their time in the industry, Marques’ Almeida could have written the rule book on how to survive as an independent brand, by looking inwards and learning to pivot – launching a surplus materials arm (REM’ADE), upskilling with artisans (M’AKERS), and adopting radical transparency through publishing See-Through. It would not be far-fetched to suggest the brand consider a consultancy arm as their next venture – to help the new names coming up behind them. But for today it’s looking to the future through the next generation who will unknowingly be making a difference by contributing to positive environmental and social change, while learning to stand out and look decidedly different from your atypical Alpha.
