The Costume Institute’s latest exhibition delves deep into the contributions of female fashion trailblazers.
The Metropolitan Museum of Art is set to launch “Women Dressing Women” at the Costume Institute, an exhibition that accentuates the indelible mark left by female designers in 20th century fashion.
Come December 7, visitors will be treated to a collection of 80 standout pieces from the museum’s archives. This carefully curated ensemble will not only showcase well-recognized names such as Claire McCardell, Miuccia Prada, Madeleine Vionnet, and Vivienne Westwood, but also shine a light on lesser-known talents like Ann Lowe, Adèle Henriette Nigrin Fortuny, and Isabel Toledo, among others. Gabriela Hearst and Comme des Garçons’ Rei Kawakubo are also expected to draw their dedicated followers to the institute.
But “Women Dressing Women” is more than just a visual feast. This exhibition intends to propel a dialogue beyond the origins and aesthetics of each garment. Through its duration until March 3, the exhibit will dissect themes of anonymity, visibility, agency, and absence/omission. It aims to unveil how the fashion industry has served as a catalyst for women’s social, economic, and creative emancipation.
A striking feature of the exhibit is the exploration of the intricate tapestry of identities, mentorships, and unique associations that bound these pioneering designers. Beginning with a tribute to nameless dressmakers of the past, the exhibition evolves to illustrate the transition from them to today’s high-profile designers.
Highlights include a section at the Carl and Iris Barrel Apfel Gallery, dedicated to women who made their mark as Parisian couturiers and the subsequent strides they achieved for women’s autonomy. The Lizzie and Jonathan Tisch Gallery will present a vivid picture of how fashion evolved into a form of political and personal expression, from the dynamic 60s to contemporary times.
As the exhibit draws to its conclusion, visitors will delve into tales of designers like Lowe, the once ‘hidden gem’ of society, who only later claimed her spot as the first renowned Black female fashion designer. Fortuny, another pivotal contributor to the fashion realm with her innovative “Delphos” gown in 1909, will be celebrated.
Lowe’s posthumous resurgence extends beyond this exhibition. The largest collection of her designs, “Ann Lowe: American Couturier”, will premiere at Winterthur, Delaware, on September 9. Accompanying this, Rizzoli is set to release a book dedicated to her on September 5. Winterthur will also be hosting a two-day symposium titled “In the Legacy of Ann Lowe: Contemporary American Fashion” on October 20 and 21.