Style Over Substance Does Not A Collection Make
Review of Moschino Spring 2024 Fashion Show
By Mackenzie Richard
THE COLLECTION
THE VIBE
THE THEME
In the throes of fashion’s ever-evolving tapestry, we were presented with Moschino’s Spring Summer 2024 collection. The ambitious, anniversary affair saw the renowned house tipping its hat to its celebrated founder, Franco Moschino, while endeavoring to chart a new course in its legacy.
Divided into four distinct acts, each segment was conceptualized and curated by a woman intimately familiar with Moschino’s ethos: Carlyne Cerf de Dudzeele, Gabriella Karefa-Johnson, Lucia Liu e Katie Grand. Theoretically, this sounds like a masterstroke – pooling in different creative visions to honor a single narrative. In execution? The results were, unfortunately, less than stellar.
The show, reminiscent of a student exhibition, was a tapestry of creative interpretations, and while creativity is always commendable, cohesion is equally paramount. The proverbial potpourri of looks that walked down the runway struggled to tell a unified story. Collections meandered from one theme to another, offering us glimpses of ’90s nostalgia and dance-inspired ensembles, but in the end, they felt more like a discordant tune rather than a harmonious symphony.
THE BUZZWORDS
Experimental: The collection took a daring leap by entrusting guest stylists with design authority, reflecting the house’s willingness to venture outside traditional boundaries.
Discordant: While aiming for a harmonious blend of diverse styles and eras, the collection instead presented a jarring juxtaposition of themes, struggling to convey a unified brand narrative.
Nostalgic: Infused with elements reminiscent of the ’90s and earlier eras, the collection attempted to revisit and celebrate fragments of the past, albeit without a cohesive thread.
THE SHOWSTOPPER
Look #12
Amidst the tumultuous sea of designs that graced Moschino’s Spring 2024 runway, a beacon shone through — an arresting vision by Gabriella Karefa-Johnson. Even as the broader collection often meandered, Karefa-Johnson’s creation stood out, encapsulating the very essence of what makes Moschino resonate. Melding the brand’s audacious legacy with a contemporary flair, she crafted a look that spoke to both long-time admirers and the fresh-eyed aficionados.
The model, wearing this standout piece, exemplified the confidence and poise the Moschino woman is celebrated for. Amid a presentation where the bar often felt lowered, this ensemble served as a salient reminder of Moschino’s potential. While the rest of the runway had its ups and downs, Gabriella’s offering was a clear nod to Moschino’s timeless allure, suggesting a hopeful path for the brand’s trajectory.
THE DIRECTION
The bold move to let guest stylists take the designer’s seat proved to be a double-edged sword. On one side, it showed the brand’s willingness to embrace change and experimentation. On the other, it risked and arguably failed to maintain the brand’s distinct voice.
Moschino, under Scott’s aegis, has always been synonymous with audacity, wit, and most notably, a kind of societal commentary that blends fun with serious reflection. This season, while they certainly had “fun”, the profundity and panache we’ve come to expect seemed amiss.
THE QUOTE
“These disparate visions produced by each creators’ varied generational and artistic background share one common goal: showing how four separate points of view simultaneously articulate the variety of Franco Moschino’s inspiration, and the common thread of his philosophy. Franco passionately hated retrospectives (comparing them to funerals) and only focused on the future.
Francos legacy in fashion, 40 years after the foundation of his brand and 29 years after his untimely death is everywhere his influence is here, now. His attitude, his values, his insistence that women retain their freedoms, their agency, and in shaping their own look to avoid becoming victims of a system of which he was deeply apprehensive.”
THE WRAP UP
The Moschino Spring 2024 showcase, in its audacious attempt to walk a tightrope between innovation and tradition, unfortunately faltered in its footing. Entrusting the design reins to guest stylists was indeed a brave stride into the uncharted, manifesting the house’s proclivity for risk and reinvention. However, where it hoped to strike gold, it instead struck a discordant chord. The singular voice of Moschino, sculpted meticulously by Scott with its unique blend of cheeky wit and thought-provoking commentary, seemed diluted.
While the runway was awash with playful exuberance, it failed to resonate with the brand’s storied legacy or push its narrative into the future. Instead of feeling like a seamless homage to Franco Moschino and a bold step into the future, it felt like a missed opportunity. A house that has been the touchstone for audacious fashion narratives missed its mark in connecting its illustrious past with a promising future.
Moschino, with its undoubted vitality and relevance in today’s fashion landscape, deserves talent that aligns with its core essence. Perhaps it would be wise to take a note from the Jean Paul Gaultier playbook or Moncler – pull in seasonal guest designers to try their hand at building on the conversation Moschino’s been developing. There’s an urgency to unearth a visionary who can invigorate the brand, ensuring its voice remains consistent yet fresh, evoking the excitement and fervor that Moschino stands for in the contemporary fashion world.
In closing, this fashion fête left us pondering: in the high stakes game of fashion, is mere experimentation without direction enough? Or do we yearn for the familiar touch of artistry and clarity? The house might benefit from some introspection, for the world of fashion, while forgiving, rarely forgets.
