Moschino Proves Why Italians Do It Better
Review of Moschino Spring 2025 Fashion Show
By Angela Baidoo
THE COLLECTION
THE VIBE
THE THEME
In this, only Adrian Appiolaza’s second collection for Moschino, it was evident that the not-so-new creative director had been given the time to explore the archives and discover what was behind some of Franco Moschino’s most iconic design ideas.
In today’s co-ed collection there was a definite design language from Appiolaza coming through as he seems to haven’t settled into his role and is taking the brand back to its foundations design-wise while pulling it forward for a new generation of customer. The collection featured plenty of surrealist moments which were fitting given the brands history with the art form, but here cut-outs were given a new appeal as the opening of collars were placed across a knitted sweater and collars themselves were multiplied and used to create flamenco-like tiered sleeves. There was also the reimagining of iconic pieces such as the ‘Survival Jacket’ which was reframed for “Urban Survival, as a proposal for a modern explorer” the designer explained to The Impression backstage, as “the idea for the collection was really to explore the codes of the house”.
But mostly the creative director remained on the right side of kitsch, as much of it – if you looked carefully – appeared in the form of detachable accessories, think egg earrings and banana brooches, multi-hat hats, elongated ties, and croissant necklaces demonstrating the way in which Appiolaza has his feet firmly on the ground when considering the retail-readiness and broad appeal of what he is creating. An exciting direction to watch is in the pared-back menswear looks, for example look 54’s tonal palette with just the right amount of slouch to the wide-leg trousers and knitwear, paired with the equally desirable look 31 of a relaxed crew neck sweater and what is sure to be the softest suede cargo pants, which was styled with an oversized buckled tote bag garnered heightened interest from everyone in the front row as phones lowered to capture what may just become the next ‘It’ bag of the menswear season.
THE BUZZWORDS
Surrealism, House codes, Subverted silhouettes
THE SHOWSTOPPER
Look #29
At its core this look symbolises the new direction of Moschino, in its graphic impact, a simple subversion, and ultimately wearable clothing that also speaks to a sense of fun.
THE DIRECTION
THE QUOTE
This season I went to the archive and I picked a suit from Franco (Moschino) and I thought about the opposites in a persons life – from the stress of the city to the idea of paradise – so we deconstructed the suit to suit different destinations, the suit becomes a postcard or it can be shredded…I also think Moschino is about having fun, and the freedom to express ourselves in the way we dress is something that Moschino needs to represent and that is what I am working on.”
– Adrian Appiolaza, creative director, Moschino
THE WRAP UP
In a collection titled “Lost and Found” we can see that in the new creative directors hands, Moschino is finding its way back, and this is in no small part to the strong visual identity that the brand has always possessed. This is something that Appiolaza has grasped and is leaning into, rather than shying away from – which may have resulted in the brand becoming another “Quiet Luxury” casualty. It’s refreshing to see such a concerted effort to focus on the individual, to create clothes that will stand out from the crowd, because a football emblazoned blazer is not for those scared to make a statement. And in pulling on Italy as inspiration there were plenty of tongue-in-cheek references to food and football that were 100% 1990s Moschino-coded. Which was the designers way of speaking to the “Made in Italy” ethos.
