Review of Rochas Spring 2022 Fashion Show
Charles de Vilmorin hits the ground roaring
By Dao Tran
Charles de Vilmorin’s debut outing for Rochas more than fulfilled the president of Rochas’s parent company, Société Interparfums, Philippe Benacin’s hope that his “youth, talent and touch of wildness will give Rochas new life for years to come.” The 24-year-old rising star known for his colorful, vibrant paintings was excited and ready to take on the reins, having grown up with the brand as his great-aunt was friends with Hélène Rochas, wife of founder Marcel Rochas and driver of the international expansion of their perfume empire after his death. When I asked him about his vision for the house, de Vilmorin effused:
“I really want for Rochas to have this vision, very poetical and super. I really want to tell a beautiful story with Rochas and to seek the poetry and the classical aspect and magical aspect of the brand, make it fresh and more actual.”
Charles de Vilmorin
There was poetry, there was magic, his original paintings for the prints in the collection also covered the windows of the Mona Bismarck Hotel, creating a contemporary stained glass effect that lit the room beautifully and set the mood for the show.
When I wondered what his inspiration was, Vilmorin explained, “There isn’t a precise inspiration for the collection, it’s more about the story I wanted to tell with this idea of interior fire.”
The collection was lit! With statement silhouettes, ruffles creating the effect of licking flames, lots of volume, down to the fabulous boots, he unleashed his creativity to great effect.
Billy Porter needs to get in touch for his next red carpet look. And those boots are going to be a thing, you heard it here first.
The suite of looks with his prints is like wearing a work of art. How incredibly elegant to show up to events looking like that.
De Vilmorin said of the more black and white section that it is “a bit more abstract. I wanted something more organic.” The great thing about this collection is that it is gender fluid and can work for many different body types and ages.
De Vilmorin produced a strong first showing, and judging by his command of his craft, this is the beginning of a beautiful story.