What Lies Within
Chitose Abe’s Spring 2027 collection for Sacai explored human complexity and personal evolution through the hybridisation, illusion and intentional fractures central to her design language, marking a return to form. Trompe l’oeil fur and sequins, organza veiling and spliced leather distorted perceptions of what was real or finished, giving Abe’s familiar tension between opposing ideas renewed relevance in a collection that embraced imperfection.
By Angela Baidoo
THE IMPRESSION TAKE
Creative Director: Chitose Abe
House: Sacai
Collection: Spring/Summer 2027
Presented: Paris Fashion Week
Reviewed by: Angela Baidoo
The Impression Review Score by Kenneth Richard:
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Chitose Abe has built Sacai on the idea that clothes, much like people, are rarely one thing. For Spring 2027 she made that philosophy overtly clear, exploring “human complexity” through a truncated evolution of dress that moved from primitive skins to the strict uniforms of the military.
THE COLLECTION
THE VIBE
Exploring “human complexity” Chitose Abe ran through a truncated evolution of humanity’s existence. From the shaggy animal skins worn by the Neanderthals to the voluminous ‘leg-o-mutton’ sleeves of the early 19th century, to the pragmatic military uniforms still in use today. With graphic T-shirts featuring the slogan ‘A Moment of Becoming’ the designer resolved that we are always in a state of ‘personal evolution.”
The construction detail of ‘veiling’ is a subtle trend that has appeared in collections for the past two seasons. Entailing designers creating a delicately embellished or statement look and then shrouding it in a layer of gauzy fabric. In the same spirit as protecting precious artefacts designers are putting a modern spin on the practice. This spring collection felt like a return to form as Abe played with this idea across a show that blended military references with trompe l’oeil and airy voluminous silhouettes.
Her opening looks, just like Stella McCartney a few short days ago, presented an alternative way to include ‘fur’ without attracting the ire of PETA protestors. As photo-real wolf-like fur textures were printed across skirts and jackets. The latter of which when covered in organza and puffed out could have elicited a double take on its provenance. Sequin-embellishment also received the trompe l’oeil treatment. Gold on black, blown-up to mega proportions, because it has been translated to 2D became a passable dress for daytime tasks.
The splicing of leather (also seen at Hermès) was a metaphor for the “intentional fractures in design” mentioned in the show notes and is indicative of the ease that designers have led with when formulating the foundation of their collections. Where luxury once required meticulous perfection the vulnerability that is found in the raw, unfinished, and untamed is revealing itself as a natural evolution for a fractured world.
THE WRAP UP
Abe’s ability to splice seemingly opposing ideas together has always been fundamental to Sacai, but Spring 2027 gave that familiar concept a timely new context. Trompe l’oeil fur and sequins gave rise to questions of what was real, organza veiled and distorted what lay beneath, while fractured leather and unfinished details rejected the expectation that luxury must always lead to perfection.
