Tod’s Clothes to Live By
Review of Tod’s Fall 2024 Fashion Show
By Angela Baidoo
THE COLLECTION
THE VIBE
THE THEME
Leaning into established house codes, for fall 2024, Tod’s new creative director Matteo Tamburini cleaved onto leather as an everyday choice for lifestyle dressing.
At the men’s presentation in January there was an emphasis on craftsmanship, with a dedicated display of the hands of ateliers, busy at work crafting leather bags and accessories. So, it stands to reason that those same accessories were incorporated into today’s show, and styled exactly as they would be worn by those who are lucky enough to invest in them. Capacious bags, passport holders, wide low-slung belts, and chunky heeled boots. Several looks also featured the houses’ classic Gommino moccasin shoe, driving (no pun intended) home that the brand knows where its bread and butter is derived from.
A standout look from the collection likely to ignite renewed interest in the brand, especially from a more youthful customer, other than the marketing coup of securing Xiao Zhan for the front row (and the priceless, yet still measurable EMV and built-in fan base that comes with that), was a delightfully oversized trench coat. Constructed with dropped shoulders and elongated sleeves for the laissez-faire effect preferred by younger Millennials. This was paired with wide leg dark denim jeans which pooled around the ankle to a pair of bright red moccasins (what is referred to as the Yorky version) with extra-long fringing. An impactful departure from his predecessor that is sure to help stamp his handwriting at the fashion house.
Having come from the stable of Bottega Veneta graduates, turning his hand to artisanal leather work will be a seamless pivot for the designer, who is sure to bring his expertise to the expansion and development of the brands core business of leather wear and accessories. In essence Tamburini’s collection communicated essentials enhanced with Italian craftsmanship, and like his peers lifestyle has become the buzzword to work toward this season.
THE BUZZWORDS
Renewed heritage, lifestyle duality, enduring essentials
THE SHOWSTOPPER
Look # 35
Tod’s brand heritage in the equestrian comes through symbolically in this simple leather shift dress with a reversed scarf detail at the neckline and extra long fringing reminiscent of a riding whip.
THE DIRECTION
THE WRAP UP
Keeping to a palette of refined neutrals, Matteo Tamburini’s efforts to create a clean slate from which to build was a success, as the focus remained on the lust-worthiness of the clothes, and the knowledge that each piece will be crafted in the finest quality materials. Adding in more youthful styling touches and exaggerated details meant that the collection gave the show-goers more than another love letter to minimalism.
