As the dramatic decrease of luxury stocks at the beginning of this year illustrates anew, 2024 is predicted to be a year of recession – and Milan Men’s fashion week was the year’s first example of fashion grappling creatively with what that might mean. The theme wasn’t exactly “quiet luxury,” but there was a feeling of sensibility and conservatism pervading the already more traditional mindset of Italian fashion. Even brands that lean more towards the provocative, like Jordanluca, or the ostentatiously glamorous, like Dolce & Gabbana, had a heightened sense of focus and pragmatism, playing their cards fairly close to their chest and banking on wearable brand staples.
Strong use of production and set design was an important way to draw out the conceptual character of the collections, with Zegna featuring an ever-growing pile of its precious cashmere, MSGM repurposing a metro station, and Dsquared2 putting a brilliant sci-fi spin on the identical twins casting concept.
The most anticipated show of the season was undoubtedly Sabato De Sarno’s first menswear show for Gucci, and while we still have questions about the story behind this new era, the creative director did excellent work to extend the world of the corresponding women’s collection and prompt questions on what a masculine idea of luxury looks like today. Plus, those ties were just great.
Taking home the top spot is Prada, who used the much-talked-about theme of returning to the office and more formal work dress codes as a jumping off point to explore the boundaries of a work uniform. Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons served another razor sharp iteration of their signature intellectualism with a collection and set design that embodied contemporary capitalism’s inescapable ability to section off nature – whether human or earthly – into its own exacting industrial lines.
Here are The Impression Top 10 fashion shows of Fall 2024 Men’s season as selected by our Editor-in-Chief, Kenneth Richard.