From ruminations on global conflict and gender identity to deep dives into menswear mythology (yeehaw, Louis Vuitton), the Fall 2024 menswear season in Paris saw designers tune in to cultural conversations and work to find fashion’s part in them.
Though gender-fluidity isn’t as big of a topic in fashion today as it was a few years ago, a reconsideration of how gender shapes our sense of self and otherness is of course one of the most relevant cultural conversations of our times, and if fashion wants to maintain its role as a mirror of progressive culture, it must acknowledge this reality. Dior, Balmain, and Loewe rose to this task, delivering collection’s that incorporated menswear archetypes while moving fluidly beyond their rigid boundaries to create a more sensitive, honest, and luxuriously liberated vision of modern masculinity.
Led by masterful designer Junichi Abe, Kolor remains one of the most slept-on brands in the game – especially as it is one of the most consistent and creative presences on the Paris Men’s circuit. This season, Abe focused in his penchant for hybridity and layering, deconstructing menswear archetypes from the worlds of workwear, militaria, and prep to deliver another cohesive yet expansive expression of fashion post-modernism.
It should come as no surprise that Rick Owens earned the top spot. Marking a break from his typical routine of showing at the Palais de Tokyo, the designer invited the fashion flock into his home – an intimate gesture that emphasized the deep sense of humanity subtly present in a collection that used proportional amplification to emphasize the inhumanity of a time when the global news cycle is shaped by conflict and genocide in the Palestine, Congo, the Mexico-U.S. border, Ukraine, the Philippines, and many more.
Here are The Impression’s Top 10 men’s fashion shows of the Fall 2024 season in Paris as selected by our Editor-in-Chief, Kenneth Richard.