A Meditation On The Circle
Review of Ulla Johnson Spring 2024 Fashion Show
By Mario Abad
THE COLLECTION
THE VIBE
THE THEME
Ulla Johnson took her affinity toward nature up a notch with a show inspired by circularity and the circle’s role as a divine form as seen from the very first look which features the sun as a centerpiece. The circle motif ran through everything from trenches to crochet dresses to wispy rosette accessories.
THE BUZZWORDS
Geometric. Feminine. Vibrant.
THE SHOWSTOPPER
Look # 1
Johnson collaborated with the contemporary artist Shara Hughes, who’s known for her landscape paintings, dizzying brushwork, and vibrant colors. She lent the designer three of her paintings for reproduction on looks including a dress with bold, graphic colors and prints that packed a punch.
THE DIRECTION
The show was held at Powerhouse Arts, which used to be a central power station that was converted into a non-profit arts hub in Gowanus, Brooklyn. Curbed screens hung from the ceiling and shell sand paintings decorated the floor.
THE QUOTE
I’m always very inspired by the natural world but this season, in particular, we explored this idea of the central nature of the circular figure and deterioration that naturally happens with time but in a beautiful way and celebrating that. I think we just wanted something that felt very much alive, something evolving, and something that felt like it was for this moment and would continue to live a life after.
THE WRAP UP
The show played to Johnson’s strengths with print and silhouettes. Her dramatic ruffles, nipped-in waists, and explosion of colors are all hallmarks of her brand that have resonated for so long with women on the shop floor. She’s continuing to mix all kinds of categories like denim and resort-wear that still feel special enough for shoppers thanks to her assured approach to feminine dressing.
