One Size Fits All
Review of Vetements Fall 2024 Fashion Show
By Mark Wittmer
THE COLLECTION
THE VIBE
THE THEME
Fall 2024 sees Vetements continue to serve up (very) oversized silhouettes and snarky pop culture references, while turning up a bit of the glam. Creative director Guram Gvasalia doesn’t show us much that we haven’t already seen from him many times before, but he knows what his lane is, and does it well.
Though the super-oversized tailoring, bomber jackets, and T-shirts are familiar, Gvasalia does mix in some interesting structural plays and fabric treatments to push the distorted proportionality a little bit further. Visible shoulder padding broadens the silhouette while adding another buffer between wearer and world, while perma-wrinkly fabric provides texture and volume.
The slogany T-shirts, however, have gotten pretty old, with the one featuring a quote from Fight Club – an edgy fifteen-year-old boy’s favorite movie – being especially egregious. And no matter how ironic it is, the world doesn’t need more South Park and Backstreet Boys T-shirts. These just feel like Guram saying “look how clever and irreverent I am,” but it’s actually neither of those things, which makes it even worse.
The final looks feature all-over rhinestone embellishments on both the oversized numbers and on bodycon dresses that seem to pull a page from brother Demna’s playbook at Balenciaga.
THE BUZZWORDS
Oversized. Aloof. Self-conscious.
THE SHOWSTOPPER
Look #69
With the contrast between a masculine and lusciously oversized coat and a delicate, sparkling, sheer dress, this striking look gave Vetements’ dedication to the oversized the narrative, character, and tension it needs but often lacks.
THE DIRECTION
THE WRAP UP
Vetements has been quite successful, and there’s obviously a lot of people who resonate with its output, so we can’t fault them too much for doing what they’re best known for. Nonetheless, the one-size-fits-all approach is starting to feel like a one trick pony, and if fans grow tired of the gimmicks, the brand could find itself dealing with some unexpected shrinkage.
