Year in Review: Standout Brand for the Year

Burberry emerged as the standout brand of 2023 under the leadership of Jonathan Akeroyd, Daniel Lee, and Rod Manley. Collaborating with photographer Tyrone Lebon, the team successfully redefined Burberry’s brand image, striking a delicate balance between the house’s cutting edge stature and eclectic British heritage. Their approach to branding was nuanced, creating messages that were both approachable and subtly subversive, resonating particularly well with younger demographics.

The transformation seen at Burberry this year was not just in its communication strategy but also in its product offerings. The brand’s pivot towards a more colorful and meaningful product range, while staying true to its roots, has set a new benchmark for luxury fashion houses. It was a foundational year, and I can’t wait to see a checked flag wave when they cross their sophomore year’s finish line.

–Kenneth Richard, Chief Impressionist

Miu Miu, under Miuccia Prada’s visionary leadership, has not only earned the title of brand of the year for its compelling Spring and Fall 2023 collections, but also for its innovative marketing endeavors that have carved a distinct niche in the fashion landscape. These collections, demonstrating a profound grasp of modern beauty’s complexities, showcase a sophisticated fusion of elements, from life-worn fabrics to gold brocade, to articulate the nuanced identity of the contemporary individual. The Fall collection, in particular, reimagines jacket silhouettes and incorporates sheer layering, challenging traditional notions of femininity and collaborating with artists like Geumhyung Jeong to explore the dynamic interplay between the body and clothing.

Simultaneously, Miu Miu’s recent campaigns, guided by the artistic vision of Edward Quarmby and captured by photographers such as Zoë Ghertner and Guen Fiore, have transformed fashion narratives into immersive tales of identity, aesthetic elegance, and emotional resonance. These campaigns, particularly for the Fall 2023 and Summer 2023 collections, artfully blur the lines between functional fashion and creative expression, intriguingly showcasing underwear as outerwear and capturing the multifaceted nature of personal identity. The Arcadie bag campaign, a tribute to artist Margaret Keane and brought to life by Steven Meisel, further exemplifies Miu Miu’s exceptional ability to intertwine artistic homage with modern fashion sensibilities. This combination of transformative design, intellectual depth, and warm storytelling not only sets a new standard in the industry but also forms a deep, personal connection with its audience, reinforcing Miu Miu’s status as a trailblazer in contemporary fashion discourse.

–Mackenzie Richard, Head of Editorial

In an era where the fashion narrative is constantly evolving, Bottega Veneta, under the innovative direction of Matthieu Blazy, has emerged as the standout brand of the year, seamlessly blending campaign innovation with timeless craftsmanship. The Pre-Spring 2024 campaign starring A$AP Rocky exemplifies this blend, repurposing paparazzi photography into a refined narrative that intertwines celebrity culture with the mundanity of daily life. This approach, mirroring the brand’s commitment to organic messaging, presents a fresh perspective on elegance, underscoring the brand’s ethos of authentic, beautifully crafted pieces.

Simultaneously, the Spring 2023 campaign further develops this theme, capturing the essence of the runway show through a diverse array of photographic lenses. It juxtaposes the timeless craft of the collection against the vibrant, urban heart of Milan, reflecting a deep respect for collaboration and diversity in artistic expression. This campaign, along with the Fall 2023 outing, spotlights Bottega Veneta’s mastery of motion and luxury in motion. The varied photographic perspectives present the collection as a living entity, experienced in daily surroundings and portrayed against modernist interiors and urban landscapes. The campaign’s film component elevates this vision, allowing the clothing to be seen as it is meant to be – in motion, revealing its rich details and textures in captivating slow-motion.

Bottega Veneta’s approach to fashion is contemplative and measured, distinct in an industry often dominated by rapid trends and fleeting styles. The brand offers a soulful and tangible vision of living luxury, cutting through the industry’s noise with impactful, representative campaigns. In 2023, Bottega Veneta has not only upheld its reputation for excellence but has also redefined the paradigms of elegance and craftsmanship, solidifying its position as a beacon of innovation and timeless appeal in the fashion world.

–Angela Baidoo, Fashion Features Editor

Tory Burch’s transformation into a ‘cool girl brand’ over the last year has been striking. This evolution, authentic in its approach, has resonated with a younger demographic while still honoring its original customer base. This dynamic shift led to a prestigious nomination for Womenswear Designer of the Year at the 2024 CFDA awards, a first in the brand’s history.

The brand’s recent “Tory renaissance” is a testament to its balance of innovation and core values. The Spring/Summer 2024 collection, revealed at the American Museum of Natural History’s Gilder Center, was a highlight of the year. It seamlessly blended retro and futuristic elements, capturing the essence of both 1960s nostalgia and modern innovation. This blend of styles underscored the collection’s standout status in 2023.

Integral to the brand’s evolution has been its adept digital marketing strategy, which involved engaging a diverse group of artists and influencers. This approach not only fostered a youthful and dynamic image but also positioned the brand as contemporary and attuned to current trends. Meanwhile, Tory Burch’s designs, such as the unique emerald green satin cocktail dress and ‘broken heel’ mules, showcased a blend of timeless elegance and modern appeal. This innovative design philosophy, coupled with a commitment to sustainable fashion, has solidified Tory Burch’s role as a distinctive and influential voice in the fashion industry, with a significant impact in 2023 and beyond.

Catherine Holstein’s brand Khaite has emerged as a standout brand of the year, showcasing a remarkable blend of hard and soft elements through effortlessly chic wardrobe staples. At the heart of Khaite’s appeal is Holstein’s ability to tap into the desires of contemporary women, offering bold silhouettes and billowing materials that embody both strength and fragility. Her Spring 2024 collection, characterized by minimal yet modern designs, brilliantly experiments with proportions, juxtaposing strong, broad-shouldered outerwear against the soft fluidity of peasant shirts and dresses. This duality speaks volumes about the brand’s philosophy of balancing toughness with delicacy, practicality with aesthetic appeal.

Khaite’s Fall/Winter 2023 collection further cements this ethos, presenting a minimalist yet powerful array of designs. The use of shoulder pads and sculpted silhouettes exudes a sense of quiet confidence, a power that is owned rather than declared. Holstein perfects familiar forms, infusing them with subtle nuances like pops of deep green and contrasts in texture, blending sophistication with playfulness. The collection’s accessories, including the eyewear collaboration with Oliver Peoples and the novel use of shearling, demonstrate a meticulous attention to detail and a commitment to evolving styles.

Holstein’s ability to continually evolve, choosing style over fashion, resonates deeply in today’s fashion landscape. Her designs not only cater to the practical needs of the modern woman but also embody an aesthetic that is both contemporary and timeless. The American Womenswear Designer of the Year award for the second consecutive year is a testament to her influence and the brand’s growing prominence. Khaite, under Holstein’s guidance, stands out for its distinctive approach to design, effortlessly merging the hard with the soft, and making it a deserving contender for the standout brand of the year.

–Mackenzie Richard, Head of Editorial