A Year in Review: The News That Echoed

The fashion industry was abuzz with the news of Sarah Burton and Gabriela Hearst departing their respective creative director roles at Alexander McQueen and Chloé. These moves opened up a significant dialogue about the representation of women in top design positions. While some brands, like Chloé, responded by appointing another female creative leader, others took different directions. This shake-up has prompted introspection within the industry about supporting and nurturing female creative talent.

In Paris, the top three revenue-generating fashion houses boast female creative directors: Virginie Viard at Chanel, Nadège Vanhee-Cybulski at Hermès, and Maria Grazia Chiuri at Dior. However, this representation doesn’t mirror the broader industry landscape, where less than a third of all fashion houses are led by women. This discrepancy is particularly notable given that women drive over 60 percent of all fashion sales and form the majority of the industry’s workforce.

Today, a glance at Kering’s creative leadership reveals an all-male lineup, a stark contrast to a decade ago when four women held these roles. Although Kering’s Deputy CEO, Francesca Bellettini, exemplifies female leadership and the group champions initiatives like the Kering for Women program, the departure of two influential female designers from major houses casts a spotlight on the industry’s ongoing challenge to achieve gender parity in leadership roles. We still have work to do both in gender and other inequalities.

–Kenneth Richard, Chief Impressionist

In 2023, the fashion industry found itself at a profound juncture where the artistry of the runway intersected meaningfully with pressing global issues. The narrative of fashion shows this year was deeply influenced by global protests, painting a vivid picture of the industry’s significant ethical and social responsibilities.

In Bangladesh, the tumultuous wage protests cast a spotlight on the dire circumstances of garment workers, juxtaposing their meager wages with the booming growth of the garment industry—a vital contributor to the nation’s GDP. The unrest, which tragically led to loss of life, raised critical questions about the compensation of workers who are integral to major fashion brands such as H&M, Zara, and Levi’s. This situation underscored an urgent call for equitable wage reforms within the industry.

This backdrop of social upheaval reverberated through the fashion world. Organizations like PETA, recognized for their direct action, reignited their runway protests, drawing attention to major fashion houses and their ethical practices, particularly concerning the use of exotic animal skins.

In France, amidst national unrest following a tragic incident, the haute couture shows in Paris continued, though not without introspection and debate. While some brands like Celine chose to acknowledge the unfolding events by canceling their shows in a gesture of respect, others proceeded, underscoring the complex relationship between the fashion industry and broader societal issues.

Environmental activism also made its presence felt, with protests against renowned fashion houses like Dolce&Gabbana and Prada. Activists expressed their concerns about the environmental impact of luxury brands, pointing towards the growing urgency for sustainability and responsibility in fashion.

Additionally, internal industry dynamics were highlighted when Gucci’s design staff in Italy protested the brand’s decision to relocate a significant part of its team from Rome to Milan, a move perceived as a veiled form of mass dismissal.

These myriad events from 2023 signaled a paradigm shift in the fashion industry, transforming the runway into a platform for not only showcasing creativity but also addressing global issues. The merging of activism and fashion reflects an evolving consciousness in the industry, acknowledging its influential role in broader societal narratives.

–Mackenzie Richard, Head of Editorial

There is strength in numbers (or so the saying goes), and with many questioning the relevance of the American luxury fashion sector of late, it was inevitable that the merger of a number of key-performing brands, to form a more powerful whole, would be in the cards. Seeking to emulate the power and performance of Europe’s best-known conglomerates, namely LVMH and Kering, Tapestry and Capri Holdings came together in a merger which could signal the resurgence of the American market for luxury fashion.

With a portfolio that consists of Coach, Kate Spade, and Stuart Weitzman, Tapestry’s announcement that it would acquire Capri Holdings, parent company of Michael Kors and Versace was a sign of the gold rush fervour with which conglomerates are acquiring brands to strengthen their positioning. The news made waves for its future implications for all the brands involved, and the possibility of a serious state-side contender to rival the European behemoths.

With the likes of Coach and Kate Spade being seen as more mid-luxury for their accessible price-points and being the go-to for that first luxury purchase for the mass-market mall consumer, this combining of the two groups could also – in time – act as a platform for young brands or impactful emerging names such as Khaite or Christopher John Rogers to foster their growth, leverage bigger marketing budgets, and allow them to be a part of a collective that could one day come to represent a resurgence in contemporary American design and compete on the global stage.

–Angela Baidoo, Fashion Features Editor

As the corporate fashion conglomerates continue to grow, the pace of the fashion cycle continues to speed up to suit their schedule. While it’s no problem for a Dior or a Gucci to hold two major fashion shows each year (not to mention cruise, pre-fall, men’s…), keeping up with that demand can pose major logistical and financial difficulties for smaller, independent brands. The demand for constant newness can also miss out on the creative excellence of these independent designers, who tend to refine and build ideas across collections and seasons, rather than banking on a new spectacle each time.

As a result, many younger brands made the difficult but wise decision to skip a fashion week this year. KNWLS skipped the Fall 2023 season in London, while many of New York’s most exciting brands and designers decided not to show that season as well, including Peter Do, AnOnlyChild, and Maryam Nassir Zadeh. The cycle repeated itself at the Spring 2024 shows as those who had taken time off returned and those who showed took a break. Even Dilara Findikoglu, one of London’s most-anticipated young designers each season, skipped showing for Spring 2024.

–Mark Wittmer, Senior Fashion Writer

In July 2023, the fashion world was taken aback by the departure of Gucci’s CEO Marco Bizzarri, closely followed by the exit of creative director Alessandro Michele. These high-profile departures marked the end of a transformative era for Gucci, characterized by exceptional growth and innovation. Under Bizzarri’s leadership, Gucci soared to new heights, blending creative innovation with commercial success, and pioneering in areas of sustainability, inclusivity, and digital innovation. His collaboration with Michele led to groundbreaking collections that redefined Gucci’s identity, setting benchmarks for authenticity, innovation, and passion. Michele’s tenure, notable for its daring, maximalist, and gender-fluid aesthetics, attracted a celebrity following and introduced initiatives like the Vault and collaborations, including the Ha Ha Ha capsule collection with Harry Styles, expanding Gucci’s reach and reshaping its identity.

The simultaneous exits of Bizzarri and Michele signal a significant shift in luxury fashion, illustrating the industry’s efforts to balance creative vision with commercial viability amidst global economic challenges. Their tenures not only transformed Gucci but also set new standards in the fashion world, leaving a legacy of innovation and growth. These changes prompt discussions about the future direction of luxury fashion houses, particularly in leadership and creative strategy, heralding a new era in luxury fashion.

–Lizzy Bowring, Fashion Editor