The Spring/Summer 2024 Haute Couture landscape was a testament to the artisanal craft emulating from the Ateliers of each house, transforming fabric into a canvas of imagination; garments were adorned with intricate threads, either stitched closely together in undulating patterns or embroidered with long threads, resulting in a delicate and weightless texture. This level of care and attention to detail means couture garments are the most elevated, avant-garde, and exquisitely unique. Texture is an essential aspect of haute couture garments, adding depth, dimension, and tactile allure to a piece of clothing, characterizing exclusivity, high quality, and attention to detail.
Fendi‘s Kim Jones trompe l’oeil style took a surprising twist with fur-inspired embroidery, bringing a novel texture play. Masterful textile work mimicked the appearance of fur and feathers, crafting an illusion of depth and luxury. This technique used tiny filaments arranged in densely overlapping rippling patterns to create feather-like, lightweight jackets, dresses, and pencil skirts handmade by the legendary petit mains – widely considered to be the most skilled artisans in the world – represents a fusion of structural integrity and ornamental beauty. Each was meticulously adorned with intricate embellishments that added a nuanced complexity. The sparkling and iridescent surfaces were beautifully subtle yet gave weight to this elegant ambiance, acting as a futuristic skin, a hybrid of natural and artificial textures.
At Alaia, Mulier’s attention to craftsmanship was demonstrated through time-consuming procedures, such as the precise opaque-sheer splicing of leather and fabric strips, providing a touch of textural surface that emulated fur but was wool threads. “This collection is about simplicity and purity, less meaning more — about intimacy. It is a decision, a choice, not to minimize but to focus on expanding possibilities; all the clothes include “a single yarn” sourced from Merino wool and then reinvented by our Atelier for over a year”.
Valentino‘s Spring/Summer 2024 Haute Couture runway presentation captivated the audience with a passionate homage to love, showcasing the enduring elegance of roses. Clothing was “decorated” with beautiful 3-D florals, evoking a whimsical and romantic atmosphere and turning the rosette from a simple ornament to a representation of sophistication and refinement. Feather details breathed life into the opening silhouette, creating an air of otherworldly grace. These ethereal elements were a narrative of delicate beauty and intricate craftsmanship – placing chiffon ruffles on a silver embroidered camisole dress or presenting a dramatic cloak in sparkling textural surfaces – “demonstrated that the ultimate luxury is the art of crafting truly remarkable clothes, each a testament to the skill and dedication of the artisan’s hand”.
Giambattista Valli‘s collection bloomed with its romantic essence. Roses, meticulously appliquéd, transformed garments into whimsical, floral spectacles, blurring the lines between fashion and fantasy.
Beyond these highlights, other designers also embraced unique textural elements. Dior‘s carefully crafted swanlike feather embellishments on the asymmetrical bustier were embroidered with a Chardon Herisse motif and cream goose feathers or another, set with crocheted field flowers and twine or a dress set with embroidered trellises of flowers in lacquered raffia, horsehair lace, and embroidered with a gradient of feathers – texturally mesmerizing.
Schiaparelli‘s otherwordly creations came with over-embroidered guipure laces and hand-cut chenille fringe intertwined with modern motifs like motherboard patterns and microchip embellishments or silver sequins, crystals, rhinestones and tassels – ethereally cocooning and hugging the body.
With their diverse and imaginative approach to textures, this season’s collections showcased the innovative textural weaves that became Haute Couture’s Artisanal fantasy. They echoed a movement towards more sculptural, form-defining designs, where traditional tailoring techniques met contemporary artistic expressions – wearable art that challenges inspires, and captivates.
