No Compromise on Creativity as Four Decades In, London’s Punk Spirit Still Reigns Supreme
By Angela Baidoo
2024 marks the 40th year of London Fashion week, and as the British Fashion Council continues its celebrations, amongst the exhibitions, pop-ups, and parties it is ensuring the legacy of the city which brought to the worlds stage Alexander McQueen, John Galliano, Vivienne Westwood, Hussein Chalayan, Simone Rocha, Richard Quinn, and Bianca Saunders, is shored up for the next 40 years.
Not immune to the volatility being felt in the market and the financial tightrope brands – both established and emerging – are being made to navigate as their retail partners shutter, the British Fashion Council and initiatives such as Fashion East are providing a lifeline to designers which has meant that art school alumni can continue to push the boundaries and provide that much needed injection of creativity that seems to have been lost in recent years.
The spring collections always offer a moment of refresh and London designers should see 2025 as a turning point to push for a more optimistic view that puts creativity front-and-centre, least it risks proving the naysayers – who are predicting the flattening of culture – right. And even as London’s biggest names who have survived and thrived through their first decade in the business are considering what their customer wants vs bringing conceptual design ideas to life, there is always room for imagination. Lets hope London’s designers think so too.
London Fashion Week: Spring 2025
Still in celebratory mode, London fashion week will continue the festivities as it marks its 40th year amplifying the unmatched talent the UK produces. This season it will be doing so at 180 The Strand as it moves locations from its former home at The Old Selfridges Hotel.
As one of the big four London has managed to master the art of a condensed calendar that leaves space for upcoming names and industry veterans to present their ideas for the season. Almost like a rebellious younger sibling the city acts a gear change from the commercially-minded collections of New York and the grown-up glamour which never fails to arise in Milan. With London establishing an air of assuredness in its creative output, the return to the runway by Nensi Dojaka and standalone collections from some of Fashion East’s brightest and most recent alumni Standing Ground, Johanna Parv, Karoline Vitto (who along with Sinéad O’Dwyer, fresh from Copenhagen Fashion Week, will up the inclusivity stakes), KNWLS and Chet Lo is further confirmation of its position. Other names to note are Harri, who presented during the re-launched London Mens June season and whose visionary collections defy convention; as well as LVMH Prize Finalists Paolo Carzana (2024) and Aaron Esh (2023) who should also be on your radar for their individual takes on low-impact designs derived from recycled and repurposed materials and tailoring that breaks away from conformity. We can also expect a continued exploration of modern British womanhood from Roksanda, Simone Rocha, Erdem, and Richard Quinn.
All eyes are certain to be on Burberry this season, as they have been every season since Daniel Lee started his tenure becoming the marquee name which draws the crowds for better or worse (pressure-wise), but with a new-CEO in place and the financial numbers reflecting that any hopes of a swift turnaround may require a rethink, Lee’s Spring 2025 collection for the the British heritage house is going to need to create an impact. Without going down the unnecessary rabbit hole of predecessor comparisons, there is so much for Daniel Lee to work with at Burberry – from British craft techniques to those iconic checks. There is also the scope to play with surrealist elements without sailing too close to fellow Brit Jonathan Anderson’s whimsical world. The start of which can be seen in the metal hardware detail of the ‘Peg handbag’ or the oversized dropped-waist belts from the Spring 2024 collection. Lee has also been restrained in his use of colour (outside of cobalt blue), so by dialing up the saturation, especially for a spring season when it is expected, a renewed energy can be brought to the British heritage brand that would also spark confidence in both the current consumer and the C-Suite.
Key Takeaways
Known for its rebellious spirit, London’s designers are pushing boundaries with an emphasis on inclusivity and creativity. Newcomers like Harri, alongside more established names like Burberry under Daniel Lee, are showcasing collections that balance British heritage with a modern twist. The key will be for these designers to maintain this dynamic creativity while navigating the ongoing economic uncertainty.
Across all cities, designers must remain aware of the shifting demands of the modern consumer. From balancing innovation with tradition to delivering collections that are both sustainable and luxurious, the ability to stay relevant while offering something fresh is the ultimate challenge this fashion week season.