The Suit and The Shaman
Review of Comme Des Garçons Homme Plus Spring 2026 Men’s Fashion Show
By Angela Baidoo
THE COLLECTION
THE VIBE
Tailoring Twisted, suit subverted
In the show notes which accompanied todays spring 2026 collection, Rei Kawakubo said the world would need someone as powerful as a shaman to right itself. And in acknowledging the global state of affairs in which she continues to show – her shows are consistently oversubscribed and often standing-room only, even in a heatwave – she should also know she is still inspiring legions of fans who are influenced by her deft hand at deconstructing and playing by nobody’s rules when it comes to how to construct a garment, so it fits effortlessly to the body.
Titled ‘Not Suits, But Suits’ the traditional tailored two-piece went through a metamorphosis, for what need do we truly have for the humble suit in today’s world of working from home and the shift in the dress codes that used to be embedded in corporate culture? So, not a suit, but also Not, Not a suit, as the designer took to redefining the blazer with feminine construction techniques (as was also seen at Dior and Dries Van Noten) causing it to nip in at a man’s natural waist and flare back out in a soft peplum, amplified further by the graphic floral jacquards or geo patterns in vibrant pop colours. Longer line blazers came with sleeve heads peeling off to reveal crisp white shirts underneath, and just when you think there could be no more ways to update the collar and lapel, the ‘Deconstructionist’ aka Kawakubo creates it in giant proportions, doubles up the lapel and folds it over on itself! The knitwear performed as if a reflection of the chaos she spoke of as gaping holes and splicing allowed the ruffles and strips of shirting underneath to peak through nonchalantly. The hip area was further emphasised with the addition of bustles in jacquards, further upending what we would consider a classic suit, but one which is the very definition of what we need in todays chaotic times.
THE DIRECTION
THE WRAP UP
When Rei Kawakubo tells us the world has a problem only a ‘powerful shaman’ can fix we would do well to listen, but her colourful deconstructed suits, which were not considered as suits per se took us out of the moment and transported us to a meditative state of appreciation for radical design in the most unapologetic way only Kawakubo can muster.
