The New New Wave
Review of Altuzarra Spring 2024 Fashion Show
By Mark Wittmer
THE COLLECTION
THE VIBE
THE THEME
The previous few seasons from Altuzarra have seen the eponymous designer seek to balance out the covetable, haute-boho statement dresses for which he is best known with layerable pieces that have more everyday wear in mind – and Spring 2024 was the most convincing synthesis of these two sensibilities yet. Drawing inspiration from French New Wave film and its aesthetic themes wherein aloof bourgeois sophistication vies with dark subconscious desires, Altuzarra creates a deep sense of mood that balances cinematic drama with real-life sophistication.
THE BUZZWORDS
Cinematic. Darkly whimsical. Sophisticated.
THE SHOWSTOPPER
Look # 25
A vivid pop of scarlet in a collection that is uncharacteristically neutral-heavy, this look neatly summarizes the collection’s reinterpretation of the cosmopolitan French anti-heroine.
THE DIRECTION
It does feel worth mentioning that several of the looks across the collection are eerily similar to Prada’s Fall 2023 collection, especially early on – a case of too much moodboard, a tapping into a collective consciousness, or just pure coincidence? While it’s always good to see a new designer make a strong effort to expand into new territories, it’s important to make sure they don’t lose what sets them apart.
THE QUOTE
The Spring Summer 2024 collection takes inspiration from the French New Wave cinematic movement, which celebrated spontaneity and realism. This collection embraces the beauty found in the everyday, evoking a sense of rawness and vulnerability, while paying homage to an era of elegance and liberation where bold shapes and daring lines redefined the boundaries of style.”
– Joseph Altuzarra
THE WRAP UP
As his signature dresses take on a supporting role rather than being the main event, Joseph Altuzarra has his work cut out for him in finding what makes his brand what it is beyond any particular piece or category. While this effort doesn’t feel entirely distinctive or original, it boasts great moments where his own handwriting shines vividly through, and has us exciting for the broadening future of the brand.
