Ballet and Dance, Virginie Viard’s Confident and Graceful Narrative
By Lizzy Bowring
THE COLLECTION
THE VIBE
THE THEME
The pre-show film titled The Button may have some questioning of relevance, but it gave some clues to the Virginie Viard’s Haute Couture collection for the House of Chanel. Viard looked to Kendrick Lamar, Dave Free, and Mike Carson to design the simple circular runway, the Button, forming the canopy above, surrounded by a screen playing the film. It was developed by PGLang, written and directed by Dave Free, scored by Kendrick Lamar, and starred French actress Anna Mouglalis, supermodel Naomi Campbell, and Chanel Ambassador Margaret Qualley. And as if stepping straight out of the film, Qualley opened the show in the classic cream tweed jacket, offset by a sheer skirt and high Poiret ruffled collar; this was the precursor for the delightful vignette of six initial ivory-colored silhouettes – a result from Viard looking to the elements of movement in dance and ballet. It was a tantalizing introduction.
The collection transformed into an ode to dance and movement. The opening looks, all in ivory tweed, featured light touches of tinted hues and added to the delicacy of the dainty tulle skirts – the juxtaposition in the length of hemlines added a compelling irreverence to the silhouette and provided a confident new look to the repertoire. Viard mentioned the Ballets Russes of Léon Bakst and Sergei Diaghilev as inspiration points as a deeper infusion of color emerged within the collection. But it was the movement of color, materials, and delicate embellishments that were the star performers. From touches of saccharine pastels to rich pinks, blues, and greens, the fabrics chosen became a fluid celebration of motion, with tulle significantly creating airy, ethereal silhouettes that flow as one with the models down the runway.
On the other hand, the most appealing styles included updated takes on men’s ballet coats. With a portfolio of specialized ateliers under its control, such as Lesage, the leading embroidery specialists, and Lemarié, the feather- and flower-makers, Chanel exemplifies the adage that “the devil is in the details” of couture. Again, delicate lace, feathers, and ruffles were fashioned and embellished, and the ever-present bows even appeared, most notably on a skirt stitched with hundreds of tiny pink bows.
The finale, of course, was the Chanel bride. This season, it was Chanel model Loli Bahia in a tiny silver-white tunic for a dress with poetic balloon chiffon sleeves and trailing yards of white tulle as a train. Romantic and decorative but grounded in a kind of contemporary reality, the tulle flowed with an ethereal quality, embodying the fluidity of dance.
THE BUZZWORDS
Fluidity, Dance and Ballet, Tulle, Artisanal confluence
THE SHOWSTOPPER
Look # 17
The addition of masculine codes into the collection came as a refreshing reminder that Virginie Viard’s narrative was not only a feminine ode to dance but also an acknowledgment that this is a contemporary collection and silhouettes such as this sartorial jacket sit just at home with an ‘expected’ little Chanel suit as it does with a flowing ballet tulle skirt.
THE DIRECTION
THE QUOTE
Virginie Viard has finally stepped out into her persona, presenting a narrative that resonates confidently and gracefully. And that is as it should be for a creative director of a storied house – the collection was decisive, cohesive, singularly focussed, and creative – an homage to Chanel, but also now, to the new era of Virginie Viard and marks a significant milestone in her tenure as Maison’s creative director.
THE WRAP UP
In this collection, Chanel strides beyond the bounds of traditional haute couture, infusing the timeless with a dynamic, contemporary spirit. The dance motif brings a fresh rhythm to the fashion house’s enduring elegance, celebrating the art of movement in fabric and form. It will be remembered for its fluidity, craftsmanship, and the poetic way it captures the essence of movement and grace. Each creation, from the soft, romantic dresses to the structured yet flowing jumpsuits, is a testament to Chanel’s mastery of combining the ethereal with the tangible. The collection, grounded in Chanel’s rich heritage, strides confidently into a new era, where the elegance of couture waltzes hand in hand with the fluidity of dance.
