A Retro Renaissance Revives Romance at Chloé
Review of Chloé Spring 2025 Fashion Show
By Angela Baidoo
THE COLLECTION
THE VIBE
Romantic revival, dream-like state, outerwear focus, everyday ethereal
Once something has been absent in fashion and the masses become enamoured with a look of the moment – namely clean lines, relaxed tailoring and oversized everything – it takes a show like todays to remind you of what has been missing.
That show was Chemena Kamali’s sophomore collection for Chloé. And that thing she reminded us was missing? Romance, in its purist, most unadulterated, and unapologetic form. At a time when female empowerment and women’s right have us fighting on the frontline, the idea of being a woman who is also a girly girl or into romance is frowned upon as not representative of how women can be taken seriously. It remains so that there is room for all facets of womanhood (one doesn’t cancel out the other), and the romantic side was overdue for a high-octane renaissance, which just so happened to coincide with Kamali taking the reigns at the heritage fashion house. Describing the overall mood of the collection the designer said in todays notes “The mood is light, weightless, sensual and joyful. Fabrics are sun faded, rinsed and worn in, mixing the precious and the simple. Lace guipures with ribbed cotton jersey, billowy silk charmeuses, Habotai silks. Floating and flying.”
In an evolution of the boho-chic aesthetic (which has unfortunately been shamelessly replicated with almost carbon copies at the mass retail level of the market) there was a broader dissection of the wardrobe of the Chloé girl. Of course there were the billowing tiered maxi dresses in an array of soft tones and pretty florals, but the outerwear included a particular silhouette we haven’t seen in a while, and will have been one that the designer had definitely reworked from the archives. In fact it was based on the Flou blouse, according to today’s show notes. It’s broad shoulders and heavy gathering across the back yoke won’t be for everyone but it reframed a woven day look as a sturdier, forgotten style of the 1970s and is sure to do for the silhouette, what has been done for the ‘Dad’ leather bomber jacket.
Summer truly is the best season for this brand to show what it can do, and the designer illustrated how it was the opposite, yet equal, side of ‘Cool girl French style’. Although styled for the runway, each look could be effortlessly transformed via layering – even the opener of a sheer embroidered volume sleeve blouse and tapered pants, which will probably come with the option of lining at retail or an equally pretty camisole to be worn underneath. The inclusion of a number of swimwear looks also pushed this collection into the world of resort-wear, another no-brainer expansion, as the floaty high-low dresses, lingerie slips, and crochet swimsuits were made for sundowners in Ibiza. The debate over denim may just have been solved for spring 2025, whether it should be the wide leg or the skinny, there is now the option of the slim flare, with a high-waist at that. Something that will be appreciated by the original customers of the brand, as well as those from the 00s who may be tempted to invest again, where they may have missed out the first time around. From a graphic perspective, last season’s stylised chain belt has been replaced with several Chloé-isms i.e. the pineapple swimsuit became a flamingo one and the a T-shirt got an abstract makeover. A smart way for an entry-level buy into the brand, for all those who want the look, but can’t afford the 30k retail price for one of the ultimate layered maxi dresses.
The desirability of this second collection gives a strong indication as to the reason why Chemena Kamali was hired. Her history with Chloé means that she understands the brand and what traits give it a unique positioning. At a time when even for those brands that have femininity at their core, a slight need to be edgy has crept in. Here there was no deviation from the task at hand. Bringing back what we didn’t know we needed i.e. girly romance, and adding to her initial offering which had a big celebrity push around that statement maxi dress and boots combination, spring 2025 will bring more interested parties to the table. Especially those who long to dress up in a lacy camisole and well-fitting jeans, or break back into their boho blouse’s and babydoll dresses. Her use of dark-ground wallpaper florals in bold blooms – which was taken from an original hand-painted artwork from the 1970s – also gives her dresses and separates weight, as in not opting for brighter tones communicates they can be worn for many seasons to come, reflecting that
“eternal state of mind guided by instinct and optimism” which the creative director described in today’s show notes.
THE DIRECTION
THE QUOTE
“I wanted to capture that longing for summer and the way summer makes you feel – taking the essence of Chloé’s roots as a starting point, building new foundations and capturing that fantasy moment of the summer months when you reconnect with yourself. When you pause, escape, explore, discover and recharge.
Chemena Kamali, creative director, Chloé
THE WRAP UP
In highlighting what we scarcely knew was missing, Chemena Kamali’s sophomore collection for Chloé brought back romance, at a time when the world has never needed the escapism more. And the industry’s obsession with clean lines has led to a flattening – or straightening – of design ideas. Not so today, boho chic was slowly evolved with the addition of more casual separates and moodier florals which can be worn for seasons to come.
Her version of the brand is set to be a perpetuation of its heritage, taking on the freedom and lightness of how the original Chloé girl navigated the world, and today the designer is giving her the permission to continue embracing her romantic side.
